Most of our ancestors came to South Africa as labourers, but now, you will find that a majority of people from the Indian community are either doctors, lawyers or occupy important positions in society here,” said Rekha, a chatty Durban local of Indian origin who I befriended on a long-haul flight from India to South Africa.

On our list of conversation topics were the life and times of people during the apartheid era, including many struggles she faced while growing up in such a society, Durban’s nightlife scene, her visits to her family home in Uttar Pradesh and the beauty of Rajasthan in December.

Needless to say, we did discuss one of the most important people in India’s freedom struggle and, as I was to later find out, a very important factor in South Africa’s movement for equality, Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. Something told me that my chat with Rekha would set the tone for the entire trip to Durban.

In a city confronted with diversity at every corner ~ people, food, languages and customs ~ Durban could serve as a microcosm of “The Rainbow Nation” ~ a moniker synonymous with South Africa due to its varied populace. No wonder it set the ball rolling for one of the greatest political leaders of the 20th century.

The genesis

In 1893, Mahatma Gandhi arrived in Durban to fight a case on behalf of Dada Abdulla. During one of his visits to the Durban Courthouse, the magistrate asked him to remove his turban. Gandhiji refused to do so and this incident was reported in the Natal Advertiser, a local newspaper. The courthouse stands even today, on Samora Machel Street, and is renamed as the Old Court House Museum, Durban. It is one of the oldest buildings in Durban’s CBD and houses a picture library of Gandhi.

Shortly after this incident, on a work trip to Pretoria, Gandhi was thrown off a train in Pietermaritzburg because he refused to move from a first to third class coach. This, despite his holding a valid firstclass ticket. Pietermaritzburg is about an hour’s drive from Durban and the station holds a plaque in commemoration of this incident, which, albeit catching Gandhi on the wrong foot, seemed to bring his political perspective on the right track.

What’s in a name?

As I strolled on Mahatma Gandhi Road (previously Point Street), towards the modern uShaka Marine World, I pondered on all the things I had seen and was yet to see. We learn about all these largerthan-life events and monuments in history textbooks. But, when we visit these places and get a feel of them first-hand, we realise that they are even more magnanimous in real life.

There’s another street named after anti-apartheid activist, Dr Yusuf Dadoo (formerly Grey Street). This street was where Gandhi first stayed in South Africa when he arrived as a guest of Dada Abdulla. It was also the place where, on the night of his farewell dinner after he won the case for Dada Abdulla, he was persuaded by the other Indian guests to stay back to fight for their inclusion in the voters’ roll.

That night, before the dinner was over, he had prepared a petition and set-up a committee. This committee evolved into the Natal Indian Congress that worked on the satyagraha campaigns between 1906 and 1913. Apart from Gandhi, what these two streets have in common is that they were both once the face of crime and urban degeneration, and naming them after such greats was a slightly different take on urban renewal on the government’s part ~ a moral upliftment of sorts.

It speaks volumes about the love, respect and admiration that the South Africans still have for Gandhi and other leaders of Indian-origin, that they still (less than a decade ago) resort to naming streets, buildings and parks all over the country after them, in an effort to clean up their no-so-shiny neighbourhoods.

Heritage trail

Perhaps no place documents and displays a major part of Gandhi’s 21 years in South Africa as much as the Phoenix Settlement, located just outside of Durban does. He chose the name “Phoenix” because of its neutrality and the mythical creature’s ability to rise from its own ashes repeatedly. It was here that he set up the International Printing Press from where he continued to publish his newspaper, Indian Opinion, without the publication of which, he claims, satyagraha would not have been so successful.

The settlement, based on communal harmony, labour and self-reliance was established by Gandhi in the year 1904. He also published Indian Home Rulehere, the book he wrote on a trip from London to Cape Town and which outlined his moral and political policies for India. His home, where he lived and worked, called Sarvodaya, was located here and even though it was burnt to the ground in the 80s, today a building stands in its place, housing the Gandhi Museum, whose exhibits can capture one’s attention for the entire day.

Some of these include “South Africa: the nursery of Gandhiji’s Experiment with Truth”, his poem titled “Sevak ki prarthana”and letters written by him to various world leaders. There’s also the Kasturba Primary School, named after Gandhi’s wife. Several walking tours are conducted here, that are mostly included in the larger Inanda Heritage Route.

Some vignettes of Durban that greet a visitor

CHOW-SOME: A major Indian influence in Durban’s vibrant cultural scene has got to be the bunny chow. It is a type of fast-food dish consisting of a hollowed-out loaf of bread that’s filled with a curry. This dish took form when the migrant Indian labourers needed to carry their curries safely to the fields. Typically served with salad and pickle, it’s best enjoyed when the gravy has soaked up most of the bread!

DAY TRIP: Get a chance to spot South Africa’s “Big 5” ~ the lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant and Cape buffalo ~ at the Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, the oldest game reserve in South Africa. It’s about 237km one-way from Durban so be sure to reserve the entire day for the wild adventure!

DURBAN DIARIES

Try these spots once you’ve had your fill of history:

Umhlanga Rocks: Visit this upscale neighbourhood for a taste of luxury. Head to one its many restaurants with 14 on Chartwell being our favourite.

Durban Ricksha Bus: a great way to get a bird’s eye view of Durban would be to hop onto an open-air ricksha bus. These are organised twice every day and last about 3 hours, showing you all the famous spots in the city with simultaneous commentary. The pickup point is usually North Beach.

uShaka Marine World: enjoy Durban’s seaside or say hello to the marine life housed at this interactive aquarium.

Florida Street: This area never really sleeps and is famous for its restaurants and bars that are housed in quaint Edwardian buildings. Try Dropkick Murphy’s for a fun time or Spiga d’Oro for a fine Italian meal.

Phezulu Safari Park: Offering a peek into the life, customs and food of the Zulus, the Phezulu Safari Park is also home to beastly animals, a vibrant arts and crafts centre and is situated in the gorgeous “valley of a 1000 hills”.

Moses MabhidaStadium: Head to this stadium for the exhilarating “Big Rush Swing” bungee jump experience.

Durban Promenade: Go here for a simple stroll by the sea, to revel in the culinary delights of the seaside restaurant, Circus Circus, or simply to gape at the Art Deco buildings lining the seaside promenade.