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Finding bliss

Rishikesh might be the most visited city in north India today, especially for the adventure seeker, but the heart of the region still lies in the religious old city~Haridwar, says Rupali Dean.

Finding bliss

Haveli Hari Ganga.

The Haridwar district begins along the banks of the Holy River Ganga and spreads up into the hills behind. Straddling the River Ganga, the arching ironwork of the bridge dominates its waterfront. Haridwar, or, going by its name, the “Gateway to God”, is also a haven for tourists.

From the iron bridge one can see a number of lodges dotting the city. I opted to stayat Haveli Hari Ganga, a gorgeous heritage property located on the ghats of the Ganges very near Har Ki Pauri. The location couldn’t be better for exploring the ghats and plunging into local culture.

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Haridwar Ganga Arti
Haridwar Ganga Arti

 

Serenity

Concealed away in Bara Bazaar, but right on the Ganges, this splendid 1918 haveli (traditional, ornamentally-adorned residence) is Haridwar’s optimum hotel. Interior courtyards and marble floors give it a majestic charm, balanced with tones of silence and ease.

A well in the premises has silent water with highly digestive powers. Haveli Hari Ganga is a place where one can just sit by the banks of Ganges for hours, gazing at the currents and listening to the music of the flowing water, or take a dip in the holy water at its private ghat to add more freshness to life! One of the highlights of staying at the Haveli Hari Ganga is waking up to the Ganga.

 

Haveli Hari ganga terrace
Haveli Hari ganga terrace

 

Rooms here are simple, extremely comfortable and I will always recommend one of the river facing ones. It is absolutely worth spending a wee bit more for a Ganges View room, with a balcony overlooking the river. In the morning, the first thing we did was take a seat in the balcony and watch the holy river in all its grace while we sipped our morning tea ~ seems like worship in itself.

Meals here are home-style and extremely decadent. In all my years of travel, this is a place of dining where my soul has been truly satisfied. I could come back all the way to Haridwar for the lunch thali alone!

Step back in time

Haridwar isn’t only about pilgrimage. There is a lot more to discover. From the top of the terrace I get a bird’s-eye view on to the maze of streets and people thronging the ghat. And I can’t wait to get down there to explore.

The Har Ki Pauri square is filled with priests, flower shops and even vegetarian restaurants. which overflow with people. But as I move away from the bustle of the square by just a few streets, it’s like I have suddenly stepped a few centuries back in time. From Har Ki Pauri we head up back to the Haveli.

 

Flute playing at the havel's courtyard
Flute playing at the havel’s courtyard.

 

Pathways twist and turn through narrow alleyway, so it doesn’t take long to get completely disorientated, but that’s the best way to see the market. Back in the Haveli, which truly is a jewel in the heart of all the hustle and bustle, I am just in time for the evening aarti ~ bliss!

Next morning I book myself for a spa, which rejuvenates me like never before. Truly the Haveli Hari Ganga enhances the experience of staying in Haridwar, with its luxurious comfort and warm hospitality.

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