Bengal’s rich textile traditions have been shaped by its mastery of cotton, silk and jute. The cultivation and trade of these fibres once contributed significantly to the region’s prosperity, enabling cultural exchanges that influenced apparel and furnishings far beyond its deltaic landscape. Today, Bengal’s textile heritage is both a symbol of its past glory and a beacon for contemporary innovation.
The exhibition, “Textiles from Bengal: A Shared Legacy”, opened at the Kolkata Centre for Creativity recently, offering an in-depth journey into Bengal’s textile heritage. Curated and directed by Weavers Studio Resource Centre (WSRC), the showcase traces the region’s rich textile traditions from the Mughal era to the partition of Bengal into West Bengal and Bangladesh. Visitors can explore iconic textile forms such as muslins, kantha, jamdani, Indo-Portuguese embroideries and Haji rumals. Featuring meticulously preserved artefacts from WSRC’s archives, the exhibition sheds light on Bengal’s global trade history and enduring artistic traditions. The exhibition is open to visitors till 31 March 2025.
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A legacy of craft and commerce
Bengal’s textile history is deeply intertwined with indigenous craftsmanship, European trade and colonial exploitation. The region’s famed muslin—so fine it was called “woven air”—was sought after across the world. Bengal’s mastery in hand spinning, weaving, and embellishment flourished until British colonial policies led to its decline. However, in recent decades, designers have reimagined these traditions, blending historical motifs with modern applications to cater to both local and luxury global markets. Central to this revival is the expertise in hand-spun cotton and natural dyeing techniques, which continue to uphold Bengal’s legacy.
The art of drapery: Sarees and dhotis
South Asia’s draped garments reflect diverse communities and occasions, and Bengal’s sarees and dhotis are no exception. Characterised by minimalistic stripes and checks, these textiles have long been a staple for both rural and urban wearers. Their understated elegance embodies the region’s aesthetic simplicity while maintaining an unbroken connection to centuries-old traditions.
Jamdani: The jewel of Bengal
Jamdani, a celebrated brocading technique, is renowned for its intricate floral and geometric patterns woven onto fine muslin. Historically, Jamdani was mostly unbleached or white, but this exhibition introduces coloured versions inspired by Indic palettes, with deep blues—nilambari—standing out as an indigo-dyed marvel. An especially rare exhibit features embroidery mimicking woven Jamdani patterns, highlighting the fluid exchange of inspiration between Bengal’s textile arts.
Jamdani finds expression beyond clothing, influencing stitched apparel and even home furnishings. Its textural richness mirrors the aesthetic grandeur of 17th and 18th-century Bengal, as seen in miniature paintings and architectural elements like jaali screens and garden fountains. The tradition of embroidery, including chikankari, further enhanced muslin’s delicate beauty. While chikankari is now associated with Awadh, it once thrived in Bengal, incorporating metallic elements that elevated it to an artistic pinnacle. Revived 19th-century samples displayed in the exhibition demonstrate how these skills endure today, with contemporary artists breathing new life into the craft.
Silk embroideries: A global tapestry
A lesser-known aspect of Bengal’s textile history is its silk embroidery, crafted from tasar, muga and mulberry silk. Some of these fabrics were Indo-Portuguese trade cloths exported to Portugal from the 17th century, while others—Haji Rumals—found their way to Indonesia and the Arab world as head coverings for men. For the first time, this exhibition showcases these textiles alongside a modern artistic interpretation, highlighting their enduring influence.
Kantha: A stitch in time
Kantha, Bengal’s tradition of hand quilting and embroidery, was originally a household craft practised by women who stitched layers of old cloth together, often passing these heirlooms down through generations. Many 19th and early 20th-century kantha pieces feature intricate imagery depicting Bengal’s evolving political and social landscape. Since the 1980s, artisans and designers have transformed kantha into a thriving industry, providing decentralised employment opportunities while reshaping it into a medium for fashion and interior design. More recently, visual artists have begun using kantha to narrate personal stories, elevating it beyond its utilitarian origins.
Murshidabad’s silken splendour
Bengal’s fine silk, particularly from Murshidabad, was historically woven into exquisite sarees and drapes. Among them, Baluchari sarees, with their vibrant floral and figurative motifs, stand out for their painterly quality. Another rare genre, namavali, featured religious texts woven into the fabric, an attestation to the sophisticated draw-loom techniques used. These textiles, nearly lost to history, are now being revived with painstaking attention to detail, restoring Bengal’s place in the world of luxury silk weaving.
Curator Mayank Mansingh Kaul noted, “This exhibition expands the narrative beyond the celebrated kantha and jamdani, revealing the multifaceted contributions of Bengal’s artisans to global textile culture.”
Darshan Shah, project director and founder of WSRC, emphasised, “For nearly three decades, our Textile Study Centre has preserved Bengal’s textile legacy. This exhibit reignites the dialogue around these traditions and their future in academic and commercial spheres.”
Art conservationist Anupam Sah reflected, “Every crease and repair tells a story. Through conservation, we honour these narratives while preserving the textiles for future generations.”
