As your hired car zooms past the Hill Cart road and you see the first glimpse of the mountains afar, as a city dweller, enervated with the blistering heat in Kolkata and being a true orophile from the heart, you will notice the change in the air. As you leave the hustle and bustle of Siliguri town behind, you will suddenly find the greenery increasing in density, soothing your eyes, and the crisp fresh air touching your face and calming your soul, with some quaint Nepali song playing in the car. If that’s not enough, have your first ‘momo break’ in the hills at a small charming restaurant run by locals and enjoy as the greenish-blue Teesta flows, carrying with it the secrets and truths of the bygone eras.

While you might beeline for Darjeeling or Gangtok because, for any mountain lover, these places are aligned with undeniable love, if you still wish to flee from the crowd that only lets you witness uncountable heads while strolling at Mall Road or get stuck in the congested traffic of the hilly towns, plan your trip to the laps of nature that will provide you with plentiful unique experiences by escaping to Charkhole. Located at an altitude of almost 5,300 feet (approximately), this small village can be reached via different routes. One includes crossing the Teesta dam hydropower plant and then taking the steep roads, crossing the unexplored hidden gem of Panbu village, and then entering Chrakhole. Or you can simply travel to Charkhole from Lolegaon, which is just 13 kilometres away. Some even plan a trip that includes a day stay at all of the places, including Rishop, Lava, Lolegaon and Charkhole. One can also travel straight from Kalimpong, which is almost 30 kilometres away from Charkhole and will take you 2 hours by car.

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Though not a maiden tourist destination anymore, Charkhole is a village that has been abundantly blessed by nature. On one side, you get to enjoy the majestic view of the Kanchenjunga, and on the other, you get to witness the magical, extensive stretch of the valleys. On the road stretch that includes Panbu village, one can experience the serenity, the calm, and the escape from the chaos as one gets to bless one’s eyes with the coexistence of the flora and the fauna. There is something extremely magical about these small, charming settlements that boast of a simple life that is universally different from the one we, as city dwellers, feel mundane to. As you travel through the small Panbu Village, make sure to view the most famous spot on your way to Charkhole, the Panbu View Point. From there, the unadulterated and uninterrupted sight of the sunset and sunrise, as well as the view of the Coronation Bridge, the dam, and the Teesta River, will be worth all the travel. Spare a few more minutes and visit the mandir that is situated just a bit far from the Panbu viewpoint and seek the blessings of Shiva. And if possible, make sure to try the authentic Nepali ‘momos’ that you will find at the local street-side shops lining the Panbu View Point.

As you reach Charkhole, you will be welcomed by the underappreciated smell of trees like pine, oak, and sal, with the clouds sometimes hiding behind the mountains and sometimes letting their presence known by covering every hilltop and every small house that comes across their path. A village that has recently become a favourite offbeat destination wasn’t like this even a few years ago. While munching on some exquisite Darjeeling tea and some ‘pakoras’ on the side, Dalman Singh Gurung, 95, a farmer who belongs to one of the oldest families residing in Charkhole and a local through and through chats with us, saying, “We now have 150 houses here, but that was not the case when we were small. It was my parents who came here first from Nepal almost 105 years ago, with hardly anyone residing in this village. Even 15 years ago, we did not really have electricity, and most of us depended on agriculture to provide for our families. There was nothing such as cars or any form of transportation; we used to cover everything by walking.” His wife, Hema Gurung, adds, “We used to walk 4-5 hours to reach Kalimpong. When I came here after marrying my husband, say, about 53 years ago, there were only a handful of families living here. While a lot has developed, a lot has changed too.”

When in Charkhole, do not just confine yourself to cherishing the mysteries of nature; according to locals, Charkhole is heaven for bird watchers alike. The diverse species of birds and butterflies in the area will make you fall in love with the place. Want a little bit of adventure, too? Gorge on your scrumptious homestay lunch that includes fresh organic produce and sometimes local cuisine, and then go on a walk, exploring the trails inside the forest that surrounds Charkhole. As the sun sets and you sip on a warm cup of tea, enjoy as the night engulfs the mountain and the small villages afar, scattered everywhere, come alive with lights twinkling, looking like small specks of stars illuminating the night. And if you are lucky, you might just get to hear the rain pitter-patter against the roof, making the night even more mystical and ethereal.