Storied atelier Zoya from the House of Tata announced its entry into eastern India on Wednesday, opening its first store in Kolkata, in a heritage bungalow on Shakespeare Sarani. Ajoy Chawla, CEO of Titan’s jewellery division, and the celebrated designer and author Twinkle Khanna together unveiled Zoya’s exquisite flagship boutique in the city where culture meets tradition. Over the last 15 years, Zoya has redefined the fine jewellery category with meaningful, wearable art and an ambience of warm luxury experience.

Zoya, the House of Tata’s exquisite diamond boutique, is India’s leading brand of fine luxury jewellery. Celebrated for its exceptional artistry, masterful craftsmanship and unique design language, Zoya curates meaningful pieces of wearable art for the discerning modern sophisticate. Rooted in India with a global perspective, each creation is a rare labour of love, inspired by narratives that celebrate the Zoya woman’s journey toward her true self.

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In an interview to The Statesman, CEO Ajoy Chawla talked about Zoya’s philosophy and its resolute business strategies.

The excerpts are as follows:

Zoya has carved a niche in the luxury jewellery market. Could you elaborate on the brand’s philosophy and how it aligns with the evolving preferences of today’s luxury consumers?  

You are absolutely right—we have carved a distinct niche for ourselves and have established Zoya as the leader in luxury jewellery in India. It’s a journey that has taken us 15 years of careful nurturing and unwavering focus. Unlike chasing explosive turnover growth, we’ve built this brand with patience and purpose. While we achieved around Rs 300 crores last year and are on track for Rs 400 crores this year, the numbers are secondary to what Zoya truly represents.

Zoya caters to the discerning, evolved customer—a woman seeking self–expression and a deeper, meaningful connection with her jewellery. Our philosophy is to be a partner in her inner journey. This is not just about adornment; it’s about offering pieces that resonate with her evolving identity, her personal story and her unique perspective on life.

How does Zoya differentiate itself from other luxury jewellery brands?

What sets Zoya apart are the intricate and thoughtfully crafted design narratives, complemented by the richness of innovation—patented cuts, unique settings and extraordinary colour palettes. Our jewellery combines artistry and individuality, featuring pieces that are not mass-produced but are instead rare and deeply personal. You won’t find these designs replicated elsewhere, as each is curated with a sense of exclusivity and craftsmanship.

In the boutique, we strive to offer intimate, bespoke experiences, ensuring every woman feels truly special. Even within a large store like this, we’ve designed cosy, personalised spaces that allow for meaningful one-on-one interactions.

The Indian luxury market is growing rapidly, with projections of reaching $80-90 billion by 2030. How does Zoya plan to capitalise on this growth trajectory?  

The luxury market, estimated at $60–90 billion, is expected to grow 4–6 times in the next six years, driven by a surge in high-net-worth individuals (HNIs), projected to more than double. Jewellery forms a major part of this segment, and Zoya is well-positioned to capitalise on this growth. Currently focusing at Rs 400 crores, Zoya aims to reach $100 million in four years, focusing on the top 10 cities while exploring potential expansion into emerging markets like Lucknow, Patna and Surat.

Zoya’s strength lies in its meaningful branding, celebrating women’s journeys and offering exclusive collections. With plans to launch innovative designs annually and expand from 12–20 boutiques, the brand is set to cater to evolving markets while remaining a partner in self–expression for its clientele.

With the rising demand for experiential luxury, how does Zoya integrate the concept of ‘warm luxury’ into its stores and customer experience? 

The warmth of Zoya lies not just in its design but in its customer experience, rooted in Indian hospitality and inclusivity. Unlike the distant exclusivity of many Western luxury brands, Zoya emphasises a welcoming approach where every customer feels valued and never judged. Zoya’s designs blend Indian heritage with global influences, drawing inspiration from architecture, culture and art forms. Collections like Her Becoming, inspired by the journey of a river, and Samave, rooted in India’s step wells, showcase this eclectic spirit. While proud of Indian culture, Zoya also incorporates modern interpretations, with inspirations ranging from Banaras to Paris and Hollywood, ensuring a unique and diverse design philosophy.

Sustainability is becoming a significant consideration in luxury markets. How does Zoya incorporate ethical sourcing and sustainable practices into its operations?

Sustainability at Zoya stems from being part of Titan and the Tata Group, both benchmarks in governance and sustainability. Titan adheres to a 4P framework—people, place, process and planet—ensuring ethical practices in jewellery manufacturing. For example, Titan’s Hosur facility is powered by solar energy and is moving towards net carbon neutrality and zero water wastage, with large-scale rainwater harvesting systems. Beyond this, the company engages in initiatives like lake restoration and waste reduction, reflecting a holistic commitment to sustainability that prioritises natural resources, people and environmental impact.

At the grand store launch, author and designer Twinkle Khanna mesmerised onlookers with her stunning appearance, donning the Autumn’s Breath necklace from Zoya’s Alive collection. This exquisite piece showcases a 9-carat lemon quartz in the brand’s iconic Bloom Cut, accentuated by a swirl of diamonds, rhodolite garnets, citrines and tourmalines. These vibrant elements come together to embody the dynamic, ever-evolving spirit of the Zoya woman. Twinkle’s selection of this striking necklace, paired with the Dawn Ring, perfectly captured the collection’s theme of unexpected colour combinations and unique gemstones.

In a conversation with The Statesman, Twinkle Khanna spoke about jewellery’s contributions to self–expression and storytelling.

Following are the excerpts:

As someone with a keen eye for design, what aspects of Zoya’s jewellery collections stand out to you?

There is fierce pride in India’s rich heritage of craftsmanship that is translated into contemporary form by Zoya. I love the storytelling behind each piece that celebrates a woman’s journey to her true self. So, Zoya’s designs are not just beautiful, but also meaningful. Whether it’s their patented cuts, unique silhouettes or the unexpected use of stones and colour, each piece is unconventional and fresh.

In your opinion, how does jewellery contribute to self–expression and storytelling?

Jewellery is more than an accessory; it’s a reflection of our stories, dreams and individuality. Each piece carries meaning—be it an heirloom, a milestone or a personal expression. Zoya captures this essence perfectly, transforming moments into timeless art. It’s a celebration of self, where every design resonates with personal significance and timeless beauty.

With the festive season in full swing, what trends in luxury jewellery would you recommend for women celebrating this time of year?

I’d say invest in jewellery that is wearable and versatile, can be styled with different looks, be worn often and enjoyed. I like Zoya’s signature collection Alive that has unusual stones in unexpected combinations. It’s vivid and vibrant and will add personality to every outfit.

How do you think luxury jewellery is evolving to appeal to the modern Indian woman?

Luxury jewellery today is about more than opulence; it reflects individuality and versatility. The modern Indian woman seeks pieces that balance tradition with contemporary design, blending heritage craftsmanship with a modern edge. Women today want to wear their jewellery and make a statement, not just tuck it away in a locker. It’s all about enjoying the beauty and meaning of every piece, every day.

As an author and designer, how does creativity in storytelling connect with creativity in crafting fine jewellery?

Creativity in storytelling mirrors the art of crafting fine jewellery—it’s about weaving emotions, imagination and precision into something timeless. Both require an eye for detail and a flair for transformation. Just as a story resonates through its characters, a piece of jewellery captivates through its design, becoming a cherished legacy.

Each Zoya collection is inspired by a distinct story, which is what truly sets the brand apart.