Jaipur, the flamboyant pink city of India, is known for its art, architecture, palaces, forts, exquisite cuisine and royal life. But just on the outskirts of the city with its huge buildings, cacophonous crowds and deafening sounds lies a small, happy, peaceful refuge where nature rules. During our recent trip to Jaipur, we visited the Jhalana Leopard Reserve, the only reserve forest in India exclusively dedicated to leopards. We did not know much about Jhalana until we visited the forest, and in the course of our safari, we got acquainted with the fascinating facts of the place.

Spread over an area of 23 square kilometres, this reserve, located on the slopes and foothills of the Aravalli ranges, is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. However, its most famous denizens are its leopards. The reserve is home to 30–35 leopards, out of which 6–7 have their territory in the tourism area of the park. The otherwise shy cat is the apex predator here and does not have much competition for survival, which makes them confident and sightings easier.

We took a morning safari to explore the park, and the safari began exactly at 6:30 a.m. At the entrance of the gate, all plastic bottles and other items made of plastic were confiscated by the forest department officials. As we entered the forest, the crisp morning air and the soft light of the sun invigorated our senses. The sun was hiding behind the Aravalli Ranges, and our safari vehicle steered along the undulating jungle tracks. We encountered a Nilgai peacefully feasting on the grassland. But this peaceful picture was suddenly jolted by a foul smell. Just a few moments later we saw the corpse of another Nilgai that had been killed by a predator. Our guide-driver suggested that we waited at the spot as there was a chance of the animal returning to its kill. After waiting for some time, we proceeded towards a waterhole. We saw a number of peacocks gleefully engaged in the act of drinking water. Our guide explained that since Jhalana is in close proximity to a populated city, efforts have been taken to encourage sustainable, ethical tourism so as not to disturb the habitat of the predator. Leopards are extremely shy cats, and if disturbed, they are prone to venturing outside their territory, which can ultimately result in human-animal conflict. The forest department has regulated the number of vehicles going inside the park. Drivers have been given training, cameras have been installed for monitoring, water holes have been constructed, and efforts have been taken to keep a healthy prey base.

Our vehicle now left the plain terrain and started ascending the slopes of the Aravalli. After a rough ride, we came to a place where a lot of vehicles were huddled together. We could immediately sense that there was some sighting. Our guide pointed towards the slope of the hill, and amidst the thick foliage, we could only discern the vague shape of the spotted cat. The jungle here was so dense that clear sighting was impossible. We waited for some time in the hope that there would be movement, but lady luck was not in our favour.

Historically, Jhalana had been a hunting ground of the royals, and after the last tiger was shot in 1948, leopards became the apex predator, and the area remained a forest land on the fringes of a city. It was in 2016 that the forest department initiated official safaris, and since then there has been a steady influx of tourists.

Our vehicle once again started moving; we descended the slopes and were in the grassland terrain. We now spotted a herd of deer blissfully playing in the grassland. From our guide we got to know that the deer population was declining and that was a matter of concern. The sun had now fully come up and had bathed the forest in its golden hue. The chirping of birds, the morning breeze, and the blossoming flowers seemed to present a vision of a surrealistic painter. We had just crossed a waterhole when we were alerted by the shrill call of the peacock. Immediately we returned to the waterhole, and to our astonishment we could now see the tawny beast drinking water with utmost alertness. The entire place was kind of animated by the appearance of the apex predator. Just in front of us, at a distance of about 50 metres, was Gazal, the female leopard, and on one side of the waterbody was Rana, the most photographed leopard of Jhalana. We have taken safaris in quite a number of forests in India, but this was the first time we witnessed a pair of predators drinking water so peacefully. As other vehicles started arriving, the pair got alerted and slowly disappeared into the midst of the jungle, leaving us awestruck with wonder and amazement.

Jhalana’s story is a shining example of how collaboration between the government, locals, and tourists has transformed a nondescript forestland into a thriving and sought-after nature reserve.

Facts about Jhalana Leopard Reserve

Distance from Jaipur – 13 km

Safari timings:

Morning: 6.30 a.m. to 9 a.m.

Evening: 3.15 p.m. to 5.45 p.m.

The author is a travel enthusiast who loves exploring places