Murshidabad, a historic town in West Bengal, has a rich history dating back to 1500 BCE, with archaeological excavations revealing pre-Mauryan settlements. The region was part of the ancient Rarh area and came under the rule of various dynasties, including the Mauryas, Guptas and Palas. Under the Mauryan Empire (4th-2nd century BCE), it thrived as a trade hub, with Ashokan stupas confirming its significance. The Guptas (4th-6th century CE) further enhanced its prosperity, as evidenced by gold coins found in excavations. During the 7th century, Shashanka, the first independent ruler of Bengal, made Karnasubarna, near Murshidabad, his capital, marking a glorious phase in its history. The region later saw political instability during the Matsyanyaya period before being unified under the Pala Dynasty (8th-12th century CE), which promoted Buddhism and trade. The Sena Dynasty (12th century) briefly ruled before Bakhtiyar Khalji’s conquest in 1203, bringing Bengal under the Delhi Sultanate. In 1352, Shamsuddin Ilyas Shah established the independent Bengal Sultanate, which ruled for over two centuries. In 1576, the Mughals took control of Bengal, and Murshidabad gained prominence for its silk and trade. Murshid Quli Khan, appointed as the Diwan of Bengal by Emperor Aurangzeb, became the first Nawab in 1717 and made Murshidabad the capital, replacing Dacca. The city prospered as a political, economic and cultural hub, attracting European trading companies. However, its independence ended after Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah’s defeat to the British East India Company in the Battle of Plassey (1757), marking the decline of Nawabi rule and the beginning of British dominance in Bengal.

As part of the Murshidabad Heritage Festival 2025, we (The Statesman) embarked on an exploration of the historic city alongside professors, students, delegates, media professionals and tourists. The journey was spearheaded by Sandip Nowlakha, vice president of the Murshidabad Heritage Development Society.

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Katra Mosque

The Katra Masjid is the oldest Islamic architecture at Murshidabad built between 1723 and 1724 by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, the first Nawab of Bengal. The name ‘Katra’ refers to a caravanserai, a traditional resting place for travellers. Designed as a mosque, caravanserai and the Nawab’s final resting place, it is one of the largest caravanserais in the Indian subcontinent and was a significant centre for Islamic learning. The mosque’s architecture includes two towering corner structures with musket loopholes, highlighting its defensive features. It features an entrance on the east side with fourteen flights of stairs and has minar-like massive buttresses at its four corners. The open courtyard is surrounded by double-storeyed cells.

Mughal emperor Aurangzeb appointed Murshid Quli Khan as Diwan of Bengal in 1702. Murshid Quli Khan was the title given by the Mughal emperor; his original name was Kartalab Khan. After Aurangzeb died in 1707, Murshid was transferred to Deccan province. In 1710, Mughal emperor Farrukhsiyar brought Murshid Quli Khan back to Bengal. About seven years later, the emperor also changed the post of Subahdar, a hereditary position of Nawab. As a result, with the Mughal emperor’s trust, Murshid Quli Khan became the first Nawab of Bengal in 1717. On becoming the Nawab, Murshid immediately transferred his capital from former Dacca to Makhsudabad. Murshid Quli Khan also changed the old name of Makhsudabad and renamed it Murshidabad, after his name. The history of Murshidabad took a dramatic turn after it became the capital of Mughal Bengal.

Notably, Nawab Murshid Quli Khan is buried beneath the staircase at the mosque’s entrance. In his later years, the Nawab wished to build his tomb alongside a grand mosque and entrusted its construction to his trusted architect, Murad Farash Khan. Despite damage from the 1897 earthquake, the Katra Masjid remains a striking blend of Mughal and Bengali architectural styles.

Hazarduari Palace Museum

Spanning an impressive 41 acres, Hazarduari—meaning “palace of a thousand doors”—boasts a remarkable architectural design featuring a thousand grand ornamental doorways. Constructed under the reign of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah by architect McLeod Duncan, this majestic structure has since been transformed into a museum. Its vast collection includes Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah’s treasured belongings, weaponry from the Battle of Plassey (1757), exquisite oil paintings by Dutch, French and Italian artists, as well as rare marble, porcelain and stucco sculptures. Visitors can also explore farmans (royal decrees), rare books and manuscripts, palanquins used by the Nawabs, and numerous other historical artefacts.

In 1985, the palace was entrusted to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) for enhanced conservation. Today, it houses 20 galleries displaying an extensive collection of approximately 4,742 antiquities, with 1,034 currently accessible to the public.

House of Jagat Seth

Originating from Murshidabad, Jagat Seth was one of the most influential financial figures of 18th-century India. A prosperous banker, he was reputed to have amassed a fortune estimated at over Rs 8.3 lakh crore. Known as the “trillionaire of the 18th century”, Jagat Seth’s legacy was built on a flourishing banking and trading empire. His grandfather, Manik Chand, originally migrated from Dhaka to Patna, establishing a successful money-lending and trade business. Under the leadership of his nephew, Fateh Chand, the enterprise expanded to such an extent that he earned the title “Jagat Seth”, meaning “banker of the world”. Apart from his financial empire, Jagat Seth managed the treasury accounts of Bengal during the Nawabi period. His involvement in the political landscape of the time was significant—he played a crucial role in the conspiracy leading to the imprisonment and eventual assassination of Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah. His immense wealth allowed him to lend money to both the British and the Mughals, securing his influence. However, his descendants were not as fortunate. Due to British conspiracies and competition from local economic rivals, the Seth family’s financial stronghold eventually crumbled.

Despite this decline, the House of Jagat Seth, built by Harreck Chand, a later-generation member of the family, still stands as an attestation to its former prosperity. Now a museum, the house showcases a collection of antique coins, muslin fabrics and luxurious garments, including intricately embroidered sarees woven with gold and silver threads. Adding to its mystique, the house features a hidden underground tunnel and chamber, speculated to have been used for secret trade discussions. This historic residence remains a fascinating window into the opulence and political intrigue of Bengal’s past.

Nashipur Rajbari

Nashipur Rajbari, also known as Nashipur Palace, is a historic edifice located in Nashipur, Murshidabad. Constructed in 1865 by Raja Kirti Chandra Singha Bahadur, a descendant of Raja Debi Singh, the palace exemplifies the grandeur of 19th-century architecture.

Raja Debi Singh, originally from Panipat, arrived in Bengal as a trader and subsequently became a tax collector under the British East India Company. His tenure as a tax collector was marked by notoriety due to his oppressive tax collection methods, which led to significant peasant unrest. The most notable of these was the Rangpur Dhing of 1783, a rebellion where both Hindu and Muslim peasants united against the excessive taxation and harsh measures imposed by Debi Singh. The revolt was eventually suppressed by Company troops, resulting in numerous casualties and a period of terror throughout the Rangpur district.

Today, visitors can explore the palace’s expansive courtyards and grand halls, gaining insight into the architectural and cultural heritage of Bengal during that era. The palace also houses a museum exhibiting personal belongings of the Nashipur royal family, including farmans and legal documents related to tax collection from that era. Additionally, within the palace grounds is the Ramchandra Temple, one of the largest temples in Murshidabad, reflecting the religious significance of the site.

(Photographs by the writer)