Across the international Indo-Pak border from Amritsar in Lahore, there’s an almost ‘patented’ line that, when translated from Punjabi into English, says, “You haven’t really lived, till you’ve seen Lahore!”. Borrowing (just like any good neighbour would!) that sentiment, let’s just say, “You haven’t really lived, till you’ve eaten in Amritsar!”

Offering a mind-boggling variety of food and drink, from the delicious plethora of street food to mid-level cafes and eateries to posh, high-end fine dining havens, Amritsar is full of interesting options for the intrepid gourmand. Knowing just what to eat and where to find it is the key. To that end, here’s a short primer on unearthing the wonders of Amritsar on a platter…

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Down to basics

Now, how could one possibly talk of Amritsar without enjoying a day about town-sampling some of its legendary street food and drink on a multi-stop food pilgrimage? Start off at Monu Kulcha Hut in the Gumtala neighbourhood of the city for some crisp, aloo-stuffed kulchas. Yes, the same kind that are generously drizzled in butter with their layers laminated with pure ghee. Served with chopped onions and a flavourful black gram stew, they are so divine that you’ll want to scarf down at least a couple.

For the next stop, head out to one of the many branches of Ahuja lassi for a tall glass of their signature, thick layer of malai-topped, not too sweet lassi. The Basant Avenue Market outpost is one of the best options, as right behind it, one more treat lies in store. Here, at Vaishno Bhojan Bhandar, try your best to make a dent into a plate of the delicious mathi chole and kulche chole that this shop is famous for.

For your final stop on this street food safari, try out the very unique aam papar chaat at Lubhaya Ram, another Amritsar landmark on Lawrence Road. Enhanced with chopped bits of the tangy mango leather, the dish is made even more piquant with the many chaat masala and amchur powders, lime juice and chutneys like tamarind added to it.

Go cafe hopping 

With a burgeoning cafe culture, Amritsar is a hotbed for interesting conceptual cafes and fun-n-casual eateries that fit the mid-level cost bracket perfectly. All this, with innovation and funky design elements pat in place.

Take, for instance, Grain. Located in West Amritsar’s restaurant-infested Ranjit Avenue, this cafe (that also houses an apparel and homeware retail space) combines the best of a day-bistro and a trendy bar by night. And one that is high on design and is refreshingly original in its blonde wood-meets-Scandinavian style. The menu here is replete with Asian and continental food dishes like sushi, noodles, grills and even a special vegan menu.

Still in Ranjit Avenue, walk across from Grain and you’ll find yourself in the uber cool, all-white setting of the cute Grab And Go By Grain, a sister concern of Grain. Enjoy house-made baked goodies, sandwiches, and muffins at this cafe. All washed down with endless cups of lattes, matcha frappes and even the current craze, boba bubble tea. Once done, sit outside in the cafe’s al fresco patio area and enjoy their wonderful selection of in-house-made ice cream flavours.

Heading a little out of the main city, Elgin Café, a garden restaurant on Airport Road, offers gourmet delights from across the world. All this in a boho, laid-back garden restaurant format. From wood-fired oven pizzas to pastas and risottos that bear a distinct Amritsari touch, one can expect to have a delightful lunch here over endless cups of coffee or chai.

Luxe dining 

Sitting pretty in the same leafy premises of the Elgin Cafe is the stunning, high-end Lord Elgin Bar. A place where global flavour meets timeless elegance, all housed in a glass conservatory-like structure.

Perfect for a sundowner, this restobar comes alive at dusk, with a vibrant atmosphere that perfectly complements its innovative menu. Designed to elevate the cocktail experience, Lord Elgin Bar offers an array of light bites and tapas-style dishes. Curated by international chefs Suvir Saran and Vardaan Marwah, the menu features progressive Indian delights like keema salli pao to Asian-inspired lotus zen fry and assorted veggie crisps with dips; each dish showcases a fusion of global flavours. As a fitting end to your day about Amritsar, indulge in Lord Elgin’s signature dessert kulfi pops, an innovative reimagining of Amritsar’s beloved falooda kulfa.

Homage, they say, can come in myriad forms. For Amritsar, its food scene does that manifold, high, low or luxe style.

The writer is an independent food, travel and luxury writer