Lord Jagannath’s Rath Yatra in Puri is eagerly awaited by millions of devotees worldwide. In Puri itself, the raths take months to build, and elaborate preliminary rituals happen continuously to build up the festival spirit.

Not many know that Odisha has another Rath Yatra considered by some scholars to be older than even Lord Jagannath’s in its present form. The Rukuna Rath Yatra of Lord Lingaraj in Bhubaneswar is over one thousand years old. The Rukuna Rath Yatra takes place every year on Asokashtami in the month of Chaitra. This is the Ashtami during Chaitra Navratri.

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The Lingaraj Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. According to scholars, the temple was built during the reigns of the Shaivite Somvanshi kings, Jajati Keshari and Lalatendu Keshari. The temple, as it stands today, was completed in the 11th century CE.

In those times, Lord Shiva was the deity most popularly worshipped in the region. Lord Shiva is the primary deity of the Lingaraj Temple. He is worshipped here as Harihara, both Hari, or Lord Vishnu, and Hara, or Lord Shiva, combined together. This combines the strengths of both Gods. Construction of the temple began when Shiva worship prevailed. Building the grand temple took many years. By that time, Vishnu worship and Jagannath culture had become increasingly popular. So the worship of Lord Vishnu was added to the temple rituals.

The Lingaraj Temple is the largest and one of the oldest temples of the ancient Ekamra Kshetra. The Ekamra Kshetra is a thousand-plus-year–old cluster of many exquisitely carved sandstone temples, such as Mukteshwar, Brahmeshwar and Kapileshwar. It includes ancient holy ponds and tanks, such as the beautiful Bindu Sagar.

Modern-day Bhubaneswar was planned beside this Kshetra, which is popularly known today as Old Town. The significance of the Ekamra Kshetra is even described in the hallowed Brahma Purana. It is stated that a pilgrimage to this Kshetra is equivalent to a pilgrimage to Kashi and other ancient holy places.

Lord Lingaraj’s Rath Yatra has other indicators of its ancient tradition. The Rukuna Rath has wooden wheels and axles carved out of a single log of wood. This is a much older design than Lord Jagannath’s chariot, where the wheel and axle are separate pieces fitted together. The wheels, fixed as one solid piece with the axle, make the Rukuna Rath much more difficult to move and control.

Today, the Rukuna Rath Yatra continues to be a beautiful tradition. On Ashokashtami, many special rituals take place inside the Lingaraj Temple. The Rukuna Rath stands on the Rath Road outside, waiting for the deities to board for their annual holiday. People gather on either side of the Rath Road, eager to get a glimpse of the divine chariot. Devotees vie for a chance to pull the Rath and gain spiritual merit.

At an auspicious time, the chalanta pratima or utsav moortis of Chandrashekhar (Lord Shiva), Rukmini and Basudev (Lord Vishnu) emerge from the temple, carried respectfully by priests. The three deities are escorted ceremoniously out of the temple and into the Rath during the pahandi ritual. There’s traditional music and dancing.

By afternoon, everything is in place. Amid great fanfare, the Rath creaks and begins to move at last. Conches blow and gongs ring. Devotees vie to pull the Rukuna Rath and gain spiritual merit.

For some hours, the Rath rattles ahead, with frequent halts to allow the cumbersome Rath to regain its balance. The many people pulling and guiding the Rath need to take these breaks to gather energy for the next thrust of movement. In this manner, the deities reach their destination, Rameshwar Temple. This temple is also popularly known as Mausimaa, the maternal aunt. It is a beautifully carved temple in the ancient Ekamra Kshetra cluster. This, too, is a Shiva temple.

When the Rukuna Rath finally reaches the Rameshwar Temple, the deities alight and are welcomed with fanfare. Special bhogs and pujas are offered, and entertainment is arranged for the guest deities. After a few happy days, the deities return to the Lingaraj temple in the Bahuda Yatra.

This return journey is a lively and colourful affair. When the Rukuna Rath arrives at the gates of Lingaraj temple, there is much music, singing and chanting. Traditional dances are performed to welcome the deities as they are carried down from the Rath and taken to their home inside the temple sanctum. Drums beat, bells ring and cymbals clang. Fireworks light up the sky in myriad colours.

After the deities enter the temple gates, there’s trouble afoot. Devi Parvati is upset with her husband, Lord Shiva. If he was so happy leaving her behind and enjoying herself with others, then why has he returned?

He has his duties to devotees, which he must perform, says Lord Shiva. But there are crowds and strangers outside. She would feel uncomfortable, so Lord Shiva didn’t take Devi Parvati along on the Rath yatra. Then he promises her long and beautiful private boat rides every evening on the Bindu Sagar Lake. This is the Chandan Yatra, which begins just a few days after the Rukuna Rath Yatra and continues for three weeks.

Odisha has several other significant Rath Yatras. Baripada is famed as the Dwitiya Shrikshetra, or second Puri. Since 1575, the Rath Yatra has been celebrated in the Jagannath Temple here. The Rath Yatra of Keonjhar is famed for having the tallest Rath of Lord Jagannath.

Baladev Jeu Temple in Ichhapur (Tulasi Khetra), Kendrapara, Odisha, is famous for its Rath Yatra. Baladev, or Balarama, is the main deity here. He is worshipped with his siblings Jagannath and Subhadrathe Ratna Simhasan. The Rath Yatra here is famous for the Brahma Taladhwaja Rath.

The writer is a journalist based in Bhubaneswar, Odisha.