Enter the spectral embrace of Kolkata’s colonial legacy, where the whispers of antiquity manifest not in the rustling of old parchment but in the haunting sighs that seep through the timeworn walls of ghostly manors. As you amble along the dimly lit thoroughfares of this city, it becomes evident that Kolkata does not merely harbour historical vestiges; it cradles a supernatural saga that unfolds beneath the pallor of moonlit nights. Beneath the bustling surface of this metropolis lies a shadowy world of haunted edifices that have witnessed centuries unfold.

It’s not just a city of literature and sweets; it’s a city that harbours spirits of the bygone eras, lurking behind ornate windows, baroque cornices and weathered facades.

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Picture not only the faded opulence of a distant era but also the ethereal apparitions that have chosen to extend their residence into the afterlife’s exquisite parlours.

So, clasp tightly your metaphysical monocles and don your otherworldly footwear, for we are about to reveal the spine-chilling side of Kolkata’s colonial allure—a realm where history is not just revisited, but hauntingly reanimated, and the spirits possess an exquisite taste for the ethereal grandeur of antiquarian estates.

Are you ready to walk the haunted streets and confront the lingering spirits of Kolkata’s past? Beware, for as the sun sets and the city lights flicker, the haunted houses of Kolkata come alive with stories that will send shivers down your spine.

THE TELL-TALES OF WRITERS’ BUILDING

Colloquially known as ‘Writers’ by the denizens of Kolkata, this edifice initially served as the administrative hub for the ‘writers’ or junior clerks of the British East India Company. Crafted by the hands of Thomas Lyon in 1777, the Writers’ Building underwent a sequence of expansions across the passing centuries. In the aftermath of 1947, it underwent a transformation into the office of the chief minister, cabinet ministers and various administrative figures, a role it fulfilled until 2013.

During this juncture, the government unveiled plans for a significant restoration of the structure, prompting the relocation of most departments to Nabanna—the present state secretariat building. According to numerous reports from security personnel spanning several years, the first floor of block five is a consistent hub of disturbances. The eerie occurrences are so pervasive that none of the security team dares to navigate the area solo after nightfall. Unusual sounds, such as windows rattling on tranquil nights, the rhythmic tapping of keyboards from securely locked rooms, ghostly moans suggesting unseen figures in distress, and the foreboding echoes of weighty marching boots, accompany anyone approaching the block.

In the 1970s, a night guard named Munshiram reported encountering a ghostly figure on the first floor of Writers’, resembling a White man in distress. The apparition vanished down the central staircase, and Munshiram heard foreboding sounds of heavy boots. He also claimed the first floor was haunted, with other spooky incidents in block three and block five. Another account talks of housekeeping head Zamiruddin, who recounted a ghostly encounter with an armed security guard outside the officers’ lavatory in block five, which vanished into the lavatory and reappeared in block one.

A night guard named Mehboob also encountered a body dressed in a very expensive suit in a deserted corridor. In the annals of hauntings at Writers’, the notorious ‘Battle of the Corridors’ mustn’t be omitted. On 8 December 1930, three young revolutionaries—Benoy Basu (22), Badal Gupta (18) and Dinesh Gupta (19)—launched a daring assault on the British India headquarters. Impeccably attired in European clothing and armed, they shot dead the infamous Inspector General of Police, Colonel NS Simpson, known for his brutal treatment of political prisoners.

The trio held off heavily armed policemen for several minutes before attempting to take their own lives. While Benoy and Badal succeeded in poisoning and shooting themselves, Dinesh survived, only to be hanged in 1931. Since that fateful night, Simpson’s spirit is believed to wander the Writers’ Building corridors. Visitors claim to hear his laughter echoing, even during daylight hours, creating an eerie atmosphere in the historical edifice.

THE GHOSTLY STROLL OF WARREN HASTINGS

Welcome to Hastings House, a colonial relic, now an Institute of Education for Women, echoing with tales of the supernatural. Stories abound of a ghostly arrival in the night—hoofbeats, creaking doors, and an intruder’s elusive search in the darkness. Once home to Warren Hastings, the first Governor of Fort William, the building resonates with history, including Hastings’ impeachment in 1785 (he was eventually acquitted after a lengthy trial).

Notably, one charge involved the alleged judicial murder of Maharaja Nandakumar, the first Indian executed by hanging, who had accused Hastings of bribery. Fast forward to 1785, the year Hastings departed for Britain, leaving behind a mysterious black box containing crucial documents. Legend swirls around this lost black box, said to hold key documents.

Today, ghost hunters speculate that Hastings’ spirit returns in search of this elusive artefact, intertwining the living with shadows of the past. Now, why would the spirit return if Hastings was acquitted in his lifetime? Logic may dismiss such questions, but believers argue that subconscious torments endure beyond death—whether as an attachment to the past or as eternal atonement. Despite rumours, few are willing to openly admit to having ‘seen’ the spirit

BAD BLOOD AND OCD AT NATIONAL LIBRARY

In cities steeped in history, there are often enclaves where silence speaks amidst chaos—a phenomenon evident at Kolkata’s National Library. While the library has relocated to the modern Bhasha Bhavan on the Alipore campus, replacing the 230- year-old mansion and two annex buildings, the ambiance of the old structure lingers in the memories of seasoned visitors.

The air still carries the weight of words, with the whirr of vintage ceiling fans interrupted only by the rustle of pages or the occasional thud of a book on a table. Long, empty corridors stretched between towering bookshelves, serving as liminal spaces between a public facade and a private secret. Legend has it that the spirit of Lord Metcalfe’s wife wanders the library corridors.

Known for her meticulousness, the tale suggests that when individuals are alone in the library, they sense a presence closely monitoring their actions—particularly when a book is not returned to its original place! Established in 1836 as the Calcutta Public Library, the institution began with 4,675 volumes from Fort William College.

The Imperial Library, created in 1891, merged various Secretariat libraries and opened to the public in 1903 at Metcalfe Hall. Post-independence, it relocated to Belvedere, a green haven between a jail and zoo. Now, here’s the catch- Should you dare to disrupt the literary order in the library, beware of Lady Metcalfe’s spectral sighs breathing down your neck.

Her ghostly displeasure haunts those who dare to misplace a book, ensuring the shelves remain in perfect harmony – even from the afterlife! Notably, it shares the ‘bloody’ grounds where Warren Hastings and Philip Francis (chief antagonist of Hastings, whose accusations against Hastings led to the impeachment of the former governor-general and Elijah Impey by Parliament) duelled in August 1780.

Although both men fired simultaneously, Francis missed his shot, and was almost fatally hit by Hastings.

However, the account of Colonel Thomas Dean Pearse of the Bengal Army artillery (Hastings’ second in the duel) reveals Hastings’ gentlemanly conduct amidst personal animosity with Sir Francis. Despite expressing concern for Francis’ recovery, Hastings intended to surrender if the wounds proved fatal. Luckily, Francis survived, but a year later, he left for England, momentarily pausing the rivalry between the two men.

THE FALLEN ANGEL AT ROYAL CALCUTTA TURF CLUB

If you stand outside the racecourse on a misty night, you might catch a glimpse of a magnificent white horse gracefully trotting over the stands—the locals whimsically dub it “William Saheb er shada ghora”. The tale unfolds with a man named George Williams and his prized horses, particularly the majestic pearl-white beauty, Pride. She conquered races, brought fame and fortune, but with age, Pride slowed, retiring from her reign as the ‘Queen of the Tracks’. Her final race, the Annual Calcutta Derby, ended in defeat, costing Williams a fortune. The day after, Pride was discovered lifeless on the race tracks, sparking rumours that Williams, in a fit of rage, may have committed equine regicide.

WHAT DO THE EXPERTS SAY?

In a conversation with The Statesman, Avijit Dhar Chowdhury, proprietor of Kolkata Explorers, shared that while he has led numerous heritage walks, some featuring haunted properties, he personally hasn’t encountered any spirits over the years. “These ‘haunted’ walks aren’t mere fun tours. The primary focus is on the heritage value and the associated history. It serves as a means of educating people about the city’s rich historical background”, he remarks. While fellow participants may have experienced an eerie sensation, to the naked eye, ‘ghost-watching’ remains uneventful. However, paranormal experts, armed with their gadgets, have recorded movements in these locations.

The author is a journalist on the staff of The Statesman.