Long before the formation of Calcutta by Job Charnock from the amalgamation of Sutanati, Kalikata and Gobindapur, Chandernagore had already come into existence by merging three villages – Boro Kishanpur, Khalisani and Goldalpara. Settled in by the French in 1673 and later developed as a commercial hub, the town fell into British hands in 1757 and once again in 1794.
Chandernagore or Chandannagar – call it what you will – this quaint town, nestled along the banks of the serene Hooghly River, is not just a tourist destination; it is a delightful time capsule that seamlessly blends French finesse with Indian vibrancy.
Long before the formation of Calcutta by Job Charnock from the amalgamation of Sutanati, Kalikata and Gobindapur, Chandernagore had already come into existence by merging three villages – Boro Kishanpur, Khalisani and Goldalpara. Settled in by the French in 1673 and later developed as a commercial hub, the town fell into British hands in 1757 and once again in 1794. However, through the course of historical events, it was returned to French control in 1815 and retained that status until 1950.
Journeying back to the 17th century, we find the roots of French exploration in India taking shape. Travellers like François Bernier (a physician at the Mughal Court in Delhi) and Jean Baptiste Tavernier (a jeweller) vividly painted their experiences, laying the groundwork for a captivating historical narrative. As we navigate the 18th century, Bengal’s commercial and social fabric unfolds through the explorations of figures such as Jacques Vincens and Louis Laurent Federbe (Comte de Modave). The French East India Company was established in 1664 under the Ministry of M Colbert in Paris.
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Chandernagore, a stronghold etched in the annals of French history, stood resilient against English overtures, even amidst the shifts brought by the Napoleonic Wars. In the post-war landscape of 1816, the town found itself back under French control. Yet, beyond its strategic importance in trade, Chandernagore played a pivotal role in French geographical and scientific missions, leaving an ineffaceable mark on ventures in Tibet and China.
The narrative took an intriguing turn with Capuchin priest Francois-Marie de Tours, who, from 1700 to 1718, sought to establish a mission in Tibet, bridging the realms of the Persian and China Missions. Chandernagore, with its unique position, served as a transit point for missionaries like Desideri, Felice da Montecchio, and Francesco Orazio della Penna di Billi on their journeys to Tibet.
The quest for overland routes to China saw the involvement of notable figures like Dupleix and Chevalier. Yet, it was Chittagong, not Chandernagore, that took centre stage in these endeavours. Administrators, recognising the strategic need to distance from English influence along the Hooghly belt, aimed to shift the headquarters of the French commercial enterprise in Bengal further east.
With India gaining independence from the British in 1947, Chandernagore was required to choose its political destiny. 27 November 1947, marked a significant declaration by the French Government, proclaiming “Free City (Ville Libre) Chandernagore”. The decisive moment came on 19 June 1949, when the people, through a referendum, voiced their choice to integrate Chandernagore into the Indian Union. The transitional phase, known as the ‘de facto transfer’, unfolded on 2 May 1950, as Basanta Kumar Banerjee took charge from Georges H. Tailleur, the last French Administrator, as per the Indo-French agreement on 18 April, 1950, signed at the Writers’ Building, Calcutta.
The formal transfer, or ‘de jure transfer’, took place on 9 June 1952 in pursuance of the Treaty of Cession of Chandernagore, thereby signalling the culmination of nearly 250 years of French rule over Chandernagore.
All aboard the Bandel local or the Barddhaman local from Howrah, a train ride filled with anticipation and a hint of French flair, taking you on a 45-minute joyride to this charming enclave.
If the road is your preferred route, follow the trail of history across the bridge that spans the erstwhile moat of Chandernagore Fort. Two majestic pillars, crowned with urns, stand guard at the city’s southern entrance, a grand entrance inaugurated in 1937 to commemorate the Fall of Bastille – etched with the timeless words “Liberte, Egalite & Fraternite”.
Once you alight from the train, take a leisurely stroll for just a couple of minutes, and voila! Totos eagerly await to whisk you away to the enchanting Chandannagar Strand.
The toto drivers here are a welcoming bunch. As we hop on for a 10-minute ride towards the Strand, Dilip, a local toto-driver shares, “Between Christmas and New Year’s Day, the Strand becomes a bustling hub, drawing in both tourists and locals alike. The church is a special attraction as well.”
Standing along the Ganges River, the Chandannagar Strand emerges as a picturesque tourist destination. Stretching approximately 1 km in length and boasting a width of 7 m, this scenic promenade is surrounded by buildings steeped in historical significance. The meticulously paved pathway adorned with subtle lights and verdant foliage offers a captivating ambiance, providing an ideal setting for leisurely strolls. Visitors also revel in the enchanting view of sailing boats in the distance.
A focal point of historical significance is the 1921 pavilion at Durgacharan Rakshit Ghat, situated opposite the Institut de Chandernagore. This architectural gem, constructed on the grounds of the former bandstand, pays homage to Durga Charan Rakshit (or, Dourgachorone Roquitte – as the plaque reads), distinguished recipient of the prestigious French Legion d’Honneur award. The pavilion’s structure boasts slender columns adorned with ornamental stucco work, featuring intricately designed elephant heads and floral motifs, a testament to the rich cultural amalgamation that defines Chandannagar.
As the French asserted control over Chandernagore, their influence left a significant mark on the region. The transformation gained momentum when Joseph François Dupleix assumed the role of Governor General of India in 1742. Under his leadership, the urban landscape underwent a complete redesign, featuring distinct French motifs and architectural elements. Soon, red brick houses, churches and basilicas adorned the surroundings, reflecting the amalgamation of French aesthetics with the local environment. Among these architectural gems was Dupleix’s opulent residential complex, now known as the Dupleix Palace and home to The Indo French Cultural Centre & Museum.
From the vibrant Gallery of the French East India Company to the elegant French period-gallery with its 19th-century furniture and crockery, visitors are transported through time. The Dupleix gallery, adorned with early 19th-century furniture, adds a touch of historical charm, while galleries dedicated to Chandernagore’s freedom and the Indian independence movement deepen the narrative. The museum’s North wing holds treasures of paintings, coins, and sculptures dating back to the 11th and 7th centuries, offering a glimpse into the region’s rich heritage. Concluding the journey, the library, established in 1966, beckons with a diverse collection of approximately 18,000 books in three languages (6,300 in French, 5,800 in English and the rest in Bengali). It boasts a collection of literary works by eminent French authors, including but not limited to Albert Camus, Balzac, Emile Zola, Montaigne, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Voltaire and numerous other literary luminaries.
Situated just a short distance from the Dupleix Palace, Patalbari, a 150-year-old French mansion, exudes a unique charm. This house features beautiful wooden sunshades, lush gardens and unused steps leading to the river. Uniquely, the house extends an entire floor beneath the Hooghly’s level, housing bedrooms, bathrooms and a kitchen equipped with clay ovens. Originally serving as a rest house for the French navy, Patalbari holds a rich history. Notably, it played host to social reformer Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar and Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore, who incorporated Patal Bari into his timeless stories.
Take a few steps back from the Chandannagar Strand, and you will come across a majestic white church.
Chandannagar, graced by one cathedral, two churches, and two chapels, saw the establishment of the Sacred Heart Church in 1691. Transformed into a parish through a papal bull in 1695, the Sacred Heart Church held the distinction of being a cathedral church. On 27 January 1884, the inauguration of the Sacred Heart Church took place under the auspices of Paul Goethals, the Archbishop of Calcutta. The construction of this architectural marvel commenced in 1875, amidst the dominion of the French East India Company in Chandannagar, reaching completion in 1884 under the guidance of Rev. P Barthet, with collaborative efforts from his brother Joachim. The visionary design of the church can be attributed to the skilled French architect Jacques Duchatz.
Extending New Year greetings to The Statesman, Father Joy Cyprian D’Souza says, “The church attracts large crowds, including locals, tourists, and foreigners, particularly during the period from Christmas to New Year’s Day. Festive carol singing resonates within its walls, creating a joyous atmosphere. The illumination of the church that adds a visual spectacle to the celebratory ambiance is meticulously carried out by the West Bengal government.”
Adjacent to the church, lies the Sacred Heart French Cemetery, constructed in 1696, though the first grave on the right side of the church dates back to 1754, adding a layer of historical significance to this spiritual haven.
As we bid adieu to the enchanting streets of Chandannagar, our hearts carry the echoes of French elegance, historical whispers, and the serenity of the sacred spaces we’ve explored. The majestic Dupleix Palace, the quaint riverbank and the soulful melodies within the Sacred Heart Church resonate within us, creating a cherished tapestry of memories. As we embark on our journey back home, carrying the tranquillity of this unique town with us, Chandannagar, with its French-infused charm and cultural richness, remains etched in our souls, a timeless haven that whispers promises of return with every gentle river breeze.
Oh, by the way, don’t miss the chance to savour the renowned Jalbhara Sandesh from Surjya Kumar Modak, a culinary treasure cherished since 1881. The sweet treat comes with a delectable filling of rosewater syrup!
The author is a journalist on the staff of The Statesman
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