Most Indians reserve a cherished ‘to-do’ list for the monsoons. Remember those Rafi and Lata hits on rainy weekends, bicycle jaunts, and fried goodies with spiced chutney? For romantic Mumbaikars, it’s tantalising chai and bun maska at a century-old Irani restaurant, chequered tablecloths and gregarious Parsi octogenarians undeterred by the ‘Orange alert’, roaring rib-ticklers a few tables away!

For citizens of Amar Shonar Kolkata, a royal culinary treat at the legendary Aminia Restaurant or maybe an afternoon of Pt Nikhil Banerjee’s famous Miyan Malhar recording on the soulful Sitar.

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However, many Indians are also increasingly celebrating every season with olfactive eclecticism. It is not surprising for a country that originally pioneered seasonal scents millennia ago with warming natural concoctions like shamama for winters and cooling extracts of flowers like kewda or pandanus for summers. “This is the time of the year when both Jasmine Sambac and Chameli are harvested as well as distilled through the age-old ‘deg-bhapka’ technique. Their extracts are called ‘Rooh (Arabic for soul) Chameli’ and ‘Rooh Motia’, respectively, and are India’s ancient monsoon scents. Crisp and enigmatic, their aromas perfectly complement the season’s vibe,” explains Mumbai-based passionate fragrance collector and researcher Gauri Vyas.

FLORAL FIESTA

Instead of a clichéd monsoon picnic to a nearby hill station, I recently planned a scent sojourn around Mumbai’s fragrant havens with an old friend and fragrance collector, Vishesh Talreja, my olfactory tour guide for the day! First stop: Mumbai’s notoriously enticing Dadar flower market. The fragrance of flaming orange marigold, captivating jasmine sambac, fresh rajnigandha (tuberose), and lush pink damask roses mesmerised us. Our short walk through the market’s messy pathways left me tearful at nature’s ephemeral bounties—the unique and distinct scent of each flower and its undying innocence cajoling us to buy a handful of each for our mothers!

Next is Mumbai’s Mohammed Ali Road fragrance bazaar. The acrobatics of dogging ‘haath laari’  luggage carts and ‘kaali-peeli’ cabs are indeed ingrained in Mumbai’s DNA! Making a beeline to Talreja’s favourite Ajmal store, we caught our breaths at its air-conditioned comfort as I let him select my scent of the day.

CITRUS SCINTILLATION

To feel refreshed on a rainy day is a benediction. Four dull grey humid months can saturate you if not for a whiff of a charming floral scent that opens with a splash of citruses. Ajmal’s Royal Sultan, released last month right at the onset of the monsoons, was his first choice for me. A sharp, effervescent lemon and fresh Sicilian bergamot ushered in a sparkling Taifi rose from Saudi Arabia. An aptly blended, clean white musk at the base added sophistication. ‘Well done, buddy’ I whispered! While it poured madness outside, the opening accords were like a quick montage of the stunning sprawl of Taormina’s sunny beaches on my mind’s screen.

ENERGETIC OVERTURES

Sharif Khan, our keen scent navigator at Ajmal, instantly sensed my penchant for Arabian scents and retrieved an ornate decanter jar of another one of their attar oils, Oud Mood, smearing a dab of it on the back of my hand. Like Royal Sultan, this too was a new attar from Ajmal’s affordable series, also appropriately released in June. Oud Mood, at Rs 800 a tola (12 ml), offered both energy and reassuring comfort.

Here was a sweet, delicious, creamy saffron and a note of soothing almond embellished with a gentle amber and a subtle rose. Unveiling classy vanilla coupled with dignified smoky-woody undertones, a hint of unobtrusive jasmine lingered as the oil majestically unfolded like a slow 1950’s Hollywood classic.

It had me reminisce about the benevolent affection of my patient parents as I would return to the warmth of home after a rough and rainy day at school, the chaos of crowded school buses, the waft of diesel and the shrieks of gay abundance from the playground as muddy uniforms and discoloured footballs tossed around in a determined drizzle.

To add Arabian allure, Talreja deftly layered Oud Mood with a dab of his first purchase of the day, Ajmal’s Dahn Al Oud 50, on my forearm. The name ‘oud’ invariably precedes raised eyebrows and gaping mouths, considering its sheer cost. Known to be the world’s most expensive scent, it is rightfully recognised as the indulgence of the Sheikhs, generally not accessible to the ‘aam aadmi’.

However, this Dahn al Oud, Arabic for ‘fat of the wood’, priced at just Rs 500 a tola, offers oud enthusiasts with tight pockets an authentic Indian oud oil experience. I instantly beckoned Khan to fill me a tola in a tough glass bottle topped with a roll-on cap.

Its accords of roasted almonds, coffee and leather instantly struck a chord with me. Monsoons, as romantic as they can often get, can lull you into lethargy. This deep, dark, energising scent, especially if worn during the incessant deluges to come, would surely propel me out of seasonal procrastination.

SPICE OF LIFE

Et voila! The last lap of our ‘scentimental’ journey was the city’s famous Lalbaug spice market. “Bless you,” Talreja gushed with my very first sneeze! And it was masala galore. In the air was what a perfumer would call a ‘scent bubble’ of exotic Indian spices.

Mysterious and truly therapeutic was the aromatic blend of cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, bay leaves, chilies, turmeric and unique Maalvani masalas from coastal Maharashtra filling the moist monsoon air. At a non-descript spice kiosk, we collaborated to conjure up a bespoke mélange of masalas for the perfectly tantalising tang!

Flushed with dopamine and satiated with serotonin, we felt inebriated with the olfactory escapade. The crowds, the commotion, and the slushy puddles below our feet — all seemed like a breeze. What more could a crazed scent-junky duo ask for?

The author is an independent writer, Hindustani musician, polyglot and perfumer with a fierce passion for fine scents, sounds, cultures and creative expressions.