The cruelty-free and artificial-dye-free ‘Karuna Silk’ from Odisha showcased at India International Trade Fair in New Delhi has grabbed the spotlight for its ethical and sustainable silk production with redefined traditional methods.

‘Karuna’, which means compassion in Odia, makes ‘Karuna Silk’ unique in its process. This method allows the extraction of silk without killing the silkworms. Usually, the cocoon carrying the live worm inside it is boiled in water before extracting the fibres. But in ‘Karuna Silk’ production the silkworm is allowed to grow and fly away as a butterfly by rupturing the cocoon. Then, the hatched cocoons are collected and the silk threads are extracted from them.

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Promoted by the Handlooms, Textiles, and Handicrafts Department of the Odisha government, the live demonstration of this new variant of silk at ‘Odisha Mandap’ has caught the attention of visitors and fashion lovers at the India International Trade Fair in New Delhi.

Odisha is exhibiting unique handlooms, handicrafts, tribal artworks, and rural produce at the ongoing trade fair at Bharat Mandapam. As part of this bouquet, the state highlights the process of ‘Karuna Silk’ production from the growing of silkworms to weaving. The final products like Sarees, cloth materials & modern jackets of silk are showcased and sold at the state-run ‘Amlan’ outlet under the Directorate of Textiles.

Weavers from the Gopalpur region of Jajpur, Odisha, are demonstrating the traditional weaving techniques of ‘Karuna Silk’ drawing the attention of the visitors to the pavilion.

“I learned about Odisha’s ‘Karuna Silk’ for the first time at the trade fair. The method of producing silk without harming the silkworms and not using any chemical dyes is new and innovative,” said Udit Jain, a visitor from Delhi.

“Visitors to the Odisha pavilion are showing keen interest in Karuna Silk garments. While witnessing the ‘Karuna Silk’ production process, they visit our stall to experience the finished products,” said Babuli Das from Amlan outlet at IITF.

As per experts, the production of a single mulberry silk saree requires between 10,000 to 20,000 cocoons. Similarly, creating a tassar silk saree requires around 5,000 to 7,000 cocoons. Hence, the same number of silkworms lose their lives in the process. However, ‘Karuna Silk’ has become an exception.

This cruelty-free approach in silk production is remarkable,” remarked Anant Ojha, a native of Odisha currently residing in Delhi.

Odisha grows 4 types of Silk, namely Eri, Mulberry, Tassar, and Muga. Earlier, Eri Silkworms were reared for producing ‘Karuna Silk’. But recently the silk is being extracted from all 4 variants. The Odisha government encourages the cultivation of various types of silk across 22 districts of the state, an official of the Directorate of Textiles said.

Earlier, artificial dye was used to colour ‘Karuna Silk’ while producing various fabrics. However, in the current variant, the natural colour of the silk fibre is kept as it is, promoting a new practice in Indian textile production.

The directorate is working on how to use natural dyes for ‘Karuna Silk’ fabrics in the coming days. Various natural colours will be extracted from the bark of mango and jackfruit trees, as well as from marigold flowers, and kumkum plants. This approach aims to make modern clothing vibrant and appealing while maintaining an eco-friendly ethos, the official added.