Two decades ago, the village of Amlasole in West Midnapore, now part of Jhargram district, was synonymous with tragedy. The “starvation deaths” of 2004 highlighted the dire conditions, where villagers survived on red ant eggs, locally known as “kurkut.” Today, kurkut has undergone a remarkable transformation, evolving from a means of survival to a prized delicacy that drives the local economy and sustains livelihoods in Jhargram.

In the dense sal forests of Junglemahal, located in southwestern West Bengal, many villagers rely on collecting red ants and their eggs from the wild. These red weaver ants (Oecophylla smaragdina) weave leaves together using larval silk, earning them the nickname “weaver ants.” The indigenous people have been harvesting these ants for generations, particularly during the winter months, from November to February, when collectors climb trees or use long bamboo poles to extract the ants and their eggs.

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Weaver ants and their eggs are a rich source of protein, fatty acids, calcium, and vitamin C. They are prepared in various ways, including a popular sour-tasting chutney known as ‘chokha,’ made by battering the ants and their eggs with salt, ginger, green chilies, and mustard oil. This chutney, once a necessity for survival, is now a delicacy enjoyed throughout India and even internationally.

Kurkut is not only a food source but also a traditional medicine. Healers in the region prescribe a hot soup made from kurkut to treat ailments like phlegm, constipation, and stomach issues. Regular consumption is believed to boost immunity and protect against common illnesses such as fever, colds, and rheumatism. Additionally, oils prepared from kurkut are used to treat skin diseases and as an aphrodisiac. “We have been eating red ants and their eggs for generations. Consuming red ants cures acidity and enhances eyesight, and its eggs help to keep the body cool and prevent sunstroke,” said Laxmimani Soren, a 47-year-old resident of Sitapur village in the Binpur-II block.

Researcher Soumen Bisui, who studies forest-based livelihoods in Junglemahal, notes the significant economic impact of kurkut on the tribal community. Families can earn between Rs 4,000 and Rs 6,000 annually from collecting and selling kurkut. The ants and their eggs are sold live in markets, often wrapped in green sal leaves, and are a popular item in weekly village haats (fairs). The price of kurkut ranges from Rs 800 to Rs 1,200 per kg in Midnapore/Ranchi and Rs 1,500 to Rs 1,800 per kg in Kolkata and other large city markets. This lucrative trade has spurred calls for a more organized distribution system to eliminate middlemen and increase profits for the collectors.

As Jhargram emerges as a top tourist destination, the demand for kurkut chutney has soared. Tourists staying in local homestays eagerly seek out this distinctive delicacy, often willing to pay a premium price for it. The chutney is typically served in traditional sal leaves, adding to its allure. Gadai Mondal, proprietor of Kakrajhor Guest House, highlights that during the monsoon season, kurkut chutney can command prices ranging from Rs 400 to Rs 600 per plate in local markets, while city markets can reach up to Rs 2,500 per kilogramme.

The arduous task of collecting kurkut involves reaching deep inside hive-like structures to extract the ants and their eggs, enduring painful bites. Despite these challenges, the collectors persist, driven by the high market value of their harvest. “Kurkut has become so valuable that selling it helps us buy food and essentials. An organised distribution system could significantly improve our livelihoods,” said Santosh Sing, 45, from Krishnapur, Belpahari.

The narrative of kurkut in Jhargram epitomises the resilience and resourcefulness of its people. From a means of survival during desperate times to a flourishing delicacy with substantial economic and medicinal value, kurkut has transformed the lives of villagers. With potential for expanded distribution and recognition, this humble red ant egg continues to play a pivotal role in Jhargram’s prosperity and beyond.

Environmentalist Dr Pravat Kumar Shit emphasises that concerted efforts to export kurkut to various parts of India and internationally could significantly benefit indigenous tribal communities. The journey of kurkut from a symbol of starvation to a celebrated delicacy is a remarkable story of transformation, one that continues to shape the lives and futures of the people in Jhargram.