Kolkata is a city of classics, a city where the old and the new live in harmony, where at every turn you will see remains of history in a modern setting. It holds a special place in its heart for a dish that tells the story of a royal legacy and innovation: the Kolkata Biryani.
This delicious meal, which stands out by its unconventional use of potatoes, originates in the royal kitchens of Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, whose banishment to Kolkata in the 19th century permanently altered the city’s culinary scene.
Mirza Wajid Ali Shah, born on 30th July 1822, was the tenth and final king of Awadh, holding the crown for nine years before being banished. The prosperous region of Awadh was “the garden, granary and queen province of India.” His kingdom, long protected by the East India Company (EIC) under a treaty, was annexed two days before the ninth anniversary of its coronation. He was a poet, playwright, dancer and great patron of the arts. He introduced Kathak, a major form of Indian classical dance. The Nawab had many good qualities that made him a good administrator. He was generous, kind and compassionate towards his subjects, besides being one of the most passionate patrons of fine arts in Indian tradition. After ascending the throne, he took a keen interest in the administration of justice, introduced reforms and reorganised the military.
Upon losing his kingdom and power to the East India Company under the pretext of misgovernance, he was banished to Metiabruz, a Kolkata suburb. He was accompanied by his close relatives, a large entourage comprising musicians, nautch girls, cooks and animals from his menagerie. He made up his mind to go to England and plead his case with the Crown, since he had a firm belief in their sense of justice. However, his physicians believed that his current health wouldn’t permit another long voyage to England, so on his behalf, his family went to petition the case.
The Nawab was in hope of being handed back his beloved kingdom, but then the Revolt of 1857 took place, dashing all hopes of getting Awadh back. He was immediately arrested and kept in Fort William for a period of 26 months. After his release, he was allotted a building called BNR House in Garden Reach, near the headquarters of South Eastern Railways in Calcutta. Back then, it was called Parikhana.
Heartbroken after leaving Lucknow, he carved out a miniature replica of Lucknow in Metiabruz. Complete with grand Islamic structures and cultural hubs, he arranged dance and music events and nurtured his love of poetry and the arts. He established a zoo of exotic animals, Kabootarbazi (pigeon flying), and kite flying, and brought along secret recipes from royal kitchens to feed the entourage. He kept the sweet memories of his Lucknow alive by recreating the musical evenings of his Qaisarbagh Baradari.
His royal chefs knew the recipes of the Awadhi Kitchen, which arrived in Kolkata with them. Awadhi cuisine was distinguished by its delicious biryani, a dish of spiced rice and meat that was popular for its aromatic richness and flavour balance. Due to a shortage of funds following the banishment, the cooks started using potatoes and eggs instead of a large quantity of meat to maintain the royalty. Thus, Kolkata biryani, as we know it today, was born.
Potatoes were brought to India by the Portuguese and were considered a novelty since they were imported. It was also quite expensive, though not as much as meat. As a result, the volume of the dish was maximised, and it added a unique texture. The potatoes absorbed the rich spices of the meat and were complemented with the flavours of basmati rice.
According to Manzilat Fatima, the great-great-granddaughter of the Nawab, his culinary heritage was his biggest pride and treasure. He was “Khane ke aur khilane ke shauqheen” (fond of hosting and eating).
The delicate application of spices and the flavourful aroma of long-grain basmati rice set Kolkata Biryani apart. Usually made with chicken or mutton, the dish consists of pieces of meat marinated in a mixture of yoghurt and spices like nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric and salt. The trademark potatoes and eggs are piled over the rice that has been cooked separately with turmeric or saffron. After that, the layers are sealed and cooked together to let the fragrances seep through the levels of rice and meat decked one above the other while also letting the various flavours combine. This is also called the “dum-pukht” style, where the lid of the pot is sealed for making biryani.
What is truly unique about it is its mildness as compared to the spicier versions of this dish in Hyderabad or Lucknow. This biryani is fragrant, flavourful and deeply satisfying without being overwhelmingly spicy.
Today, the Kolkata Biryani has become an iconic staple in this city’s cuisine. Be it tourists or locals, everyone enjoys a plate of it and celebrates this meal on every special occasion. It is found in the fanciest of places and also at roadside diners. Biryani now forms an essential component of Kolkata’s culinary culture, demonstrating the city’s ability to accept and adapt to various cultural influences.