“But here, in the tide country, transformation is the rule of life: rivers stray from week to week, and islands are made and unmade in days. In other places forests take centuries, even millennia, to regenerate; but mangroves can recolonize a denuded island in ten to fifteen years. Could it be the very rhythms of the earth were quickened here so that they unfolded at an accelerated pace?”
― Amitav Ghosh, The Hungry Tide
There are two kinds of people in this world—those who see a dense, mysterious forest and think, “adventure!” and those who see the same forest and think, “I’d rather not become a tiger’s lunch today”. The Sundarbans, the world’s largest mangrove forest, doesn’t give you much time to decide which category you belong to. One moment, you’re gliding through serene waters, marvelling at the tangled roots and the orchestra of bird calls. The next, you’re gripping the boat’s railing, wondering if those floating yellow eyes belong to a crocodile, a tiger or just your overactive imagination.
But that’s the beauty of the Sundarbans—thrilling, unpredictable and just a little terrifying (in the best way possible). So grab your binoculars, keep your hands inside the boat, and join me on a journey through a land where nature rules, and humans are just humble visitors hoping to make it back in one piece.
JHORE JOLE JONGOLE
Standing on the verandah of Jhore Jole Jongole, a newly opened eco-heritage resort in Jharkhali, Sundarbans, I nearly had a ‘Gone with the Wind’ moment—minus the dramatic farewell scene, but with just as much breeze. Clutching my cup of steaming coffee, I soaked in the warmth of the January sun, blissfully unaware that the evening held an even warmer promise—a soulful Baul performance, as assured by the ever-smiling resort manager, Somnath Kar.
Now, let’s talk about the real MVPs of the day—chefs Biswajit Khamaru and Biplab Das—who whipped up a feast so divine, even my Bengali soul nodded in approval. The highlight? A glorious crab dish and a prawn malai curry that made me question all my past seafood experiences. If you’re worried about missing the comfort of home-cooked meals, rest assured—the food here is the perfect blend of gourmet and ghar ka swad.
Post-lunch, the property, built entirely on water and surrounded by lush greenery, was the perfect place for a slow, peaceful bhaat ghum (that sacred Bengali afternoon nap). As the sun went down, it was time for music. As the melodies of Lalon Fakir drifted through the air, we sat by a crackling fire, nibbling on crispy Amudi fish fries and succulent chicken, all while the distant roar of a tiger reminded us that we were, in fact, very much in ‘their’ territory.
Oh, and if all this relaxation gets too much (unlikely, but still), the resort has you covered with badminton courts and indoor games like carrom, chess and ludo. But between the food, music and the slight thrill of wondering if a tiger might be eavesdropping on your evening conversations, who really needs distractions?
CRUISING THROUGH THE MANGROVES
If you’re in the Sundarbans and you skip the boat ride, did you even really go?
After a dinner that made me question my ability to ever diet again and a sleep so deep that even a Royal Bengal Tiger roaring outside wouldn’t have woken me up (thankfully, none did), it was time for the ‘main event’—a boat ride. We were all set to cruise the winding waters of the Matla and Bidyadhari rivers, gliding between the tangled embrace of the mangroves, hoping for a peek at the elusive wildlife and praying that the only splashes we heard were from fish—not something ‘with more teeth’.
The Sundarbans estuarine mangroves, spanning the delta of the Ganges, Brahmaputra and Meghna rivers along the Bay of Bengal, constitute the world’s largest mangrove ecosystem. This expansive forest covers approximately 10,000 square kilometres, with about 6,000 square kilometres in Bangladesh and the remainder in India. Deriving its name from the dominant mangrove species, Heritiera fomes, locally known as Sundari, the term ‘Sundarbans’ translates to ‘beautiful forest’ or ‘forest of the Sundari tree’ in Bengali.
Within the Indian Sundarbans, the Matla, Herobhanga, and Bidyadhari rivers play a crucial role in shaping the estuarine environment. The Matla River, for instance, forms a wide estuary and has undergone significant changes over time, affecting the salinity and sedimentation patterns in the region. The mangrove forests along these rivers are vital for protecting coastal communities from cyclones and tidal surges. For example, Jharkhali, surrounded by the Matla, Bidyadhari and Herobhanga rivers, has implemented mangrove plantation drives to mitigate the impact of cyclones.
As we cruised along the rivers, our boat captain, Santanu Mullick, doubled as our personal guide, dishing out fascinating facts about the landscape. Across the waters in Jharkhali, we spotted towering fences—installed to politely remind the Royal Bengal Tiger that ‘this’ side was off-limits. Fun fact: people actually lived here once upon a time, before they wisely decided that sharing real estate with a top-tier predator wasn’t the best idea.
Navigating through the mangroves, Mullick pointed out remnants of human habitation—abandoned huts, forgotten boats— echoes of a time when humans still thought they could claim this wilderness. We sipped on steaming hot tea, enjoying the perfect balance of adventure and comfort, when—bam!—wildlife sighting.
An estuarine crocodile, sunbathing like it owned the place (which, let’s be real, it kind of does). The moment it spotted us, it gracefully slipped into the water, probably rolling its reptilian eyes at our intrusion. No tiger sightings, but honestly, that was probably for the best. Some things are better admired ‘from a very safe distance’.
Over a casual chat (and by ‘casual’, I mean mildly terrifying), resort manager Somnath Kar dropped this little nugget of information: just a month ago, a fisherman became an ‘unwilling’ part of the food chain—courtesy of a Royal Bengal Tiger. “The government has strictly warned people not to venture into the dense mangroves,” he said, shaking his head. “That’s tiger territory, no questions asked. But fishermen still risk it for the best crabs and fish.” And that’s the thing about the Sundarbans—it’s a place where nature always has the upper hand. One moment, you’re just a guy with a fishing net; the next, you’re an ‘easy lunch special’ for the jungle’s most famous predator.
The Sundarbans are renowned for their rich biodiversity, serving as a critical habitat for numerous species, including the endangered Royal Bengal tiger, saltwater crocodiles, and a variety of birds, reptiles and fish. The intricate network of tidal waterways, mudflats and small islands supports a unique ecosystem adapted to saline conditions and tidal fluctuations.
The day we visited Jharkhali also happened to be the day of Bonbibi Puja, a festival where locals seek blessings from the guardian deity of the forest before venturing into the wild to collect honey and wax.
After our jetty ride, we wandered through makeshift stalls lining the area, where men and women sold Sundarbans-themed souvenirs—wooden crocodile replicas, colourful bangles and little trinkets infused with local craftsmanship. But business here isn’t always smooth sailing. With cyclones sweeping through the region every now and then, keeping a shop running is a challenge. Shop owners Shipra Mondal and Manu Baidya shared stories of how they’re evacuated to the local Aila centre every time a cyclone looms.
Returning to the resort while taking bites of koyet bel makha (wood apple mash) that Ms Baidya had prepared for me, I couldn’t help but imagine how cardinal the Sundarbans were.
Beyond their ecological significance, the Sundarban mangroves act as a natural barrier against cyclones and coastal erosion, protecting the lives and livelihoods of people in the region. Additionally, mangroves are highly effective in carbon sequestration, capturing up to ten times more carbon than mature tropical forests, thus playing a crucial role in mitigating climate change. Despite their importance, the Sundarbans face significant threats from climate change-induced sea-level rise, increased frequency of extreme weather events, deforestation, overfishing and pollution.
SUNDARBANS WILD ANIMAL PARK, JHARKHALI
The Sundarban Wild Animal Park, located in Jharkhali, South 24 Parganas, is the only mangrove zoo in West Bengal. Home to the Royal Bengal Tiger and the Saltwater Crocodile, the park attracts visitors from across India and abroad. This wildlife park is just a short walk from the Jhore Jole Jongole resort, and when the night settles into silence, you might just hear the distant, spine-tingling roar of a tiger echoing through the enclosures.
The park also houses various species such as fishing cats, jungle cats, turtles, endemic birds and reptiles like the water monitor lizards, king cobras, monocled cobras, common kraits and pit vipers— all kept in enclosures designed per Central Zoo Authority (CZA) regulations. A conservation breeding programme for species like the smooth-coated otter and monitor lizard is also in place. The park is renowned for its tiger rescue and rehabilitation programme, ensuring the safe capture, health evaluation and reintegration of rescued tigers into the wild. A modern veterinary hospital and rescue centre provide medical care for injured animals. With its high avian diversity, including migratory birds, plans are underway to establish a butterfly garden to highlight the region’s endemic Lepidopteran species. Currently home to three Royal Bengal Tigers (named Sohini, Sundar and Soham) and 11 estuarine crocodiles, the Sundarban Wild Animal Park remains a vital hub for wildlife conservation and eco-tourism in the Sundarbans region.
How to Reach Jhore Jole Jongole, Jharkhali, Sundarbans
Getting to Jhore Jole Jongole is a breeze—no boat required!
By train and bus: Hop on a Canning Local train from Sealdah Railway Station and ride to Canning. From there, a bus will take you straight to Jharkhali, where a short toto (electric rickshaw) ride will drop you at the resort.
By car: Prefer a road trip? You can drive down to Jharkhali in your own vehicle or hire a car—no river crossings needed!
So, whether you choose the scenic train-bus-toto combo or a hassle-free drive, Jharkhali is easily accessible for a Sundarbans escape.
Photographs by the writer