Once the exclusive domains of lords, viceroys and tea plantation owners of the erstwhile British colonial era, are a handful of carefully curated boutique hotel properties. Each set in the midst of birdsong and mist-shrouded mountains of north and east India. No longer foreboding and unattainable, today these properties can be enjoyed by anyone with a penchant for stately elegance and grandeur. Seen through the prism of time, their beauty is only enhanced further by the patina of age.
We take you on a trip of a lifetime to a bygone area, from Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand to the tea estate-saturated locales of hilly West Bengal to four such restored vestiges of the past.
Elgin Hall in Dalhousie, Himachal Pradesh
This quaint boutique hotel sits amid the picturesque, lush natural landscape only a hill station like Dalhousie can afford the intrepid traveller. Originally a summer escape for members of the British administration, the property was built in 1857 and named after a British diplomat—Lord Elgin. Set amongst majestic deodar trees, Elgin Hall is amid private lawns and offers panoramic views of the hills. The original old-world elegance has been retained and merged with a splash of new and modern amenities to create a magnificent home away from home. Housing seven well-appointed suites, Elgin Hall spells opulence and comfort in the same breath. Each suite is doused in a pastel colour palette and decorated with crisp-white furniture and accents inspired by Victorian heritage.
Mary Budden Estate in Binsar, Uttarakhand
Replete with a charm that belies any hyperbolic praise one may attempt to bestow upon it, the country cottage-styled Mary Budden Estate has an interesting story of its own. It was bought in 1899 by a British missionary named Mary Budden, who soon converted it into a school for local orphans. This went on for a couple of decades, until Budden’s passing in the early 1900s. Today, this carefully restored estate that is spread over five acres of land is made up of the main Mary Budden cottage and four lodges at the far end of the property, each with double rooms. In its careful restoration, the main cottage now includes three luxurious en-suite bedrooms, with warm and spacious drawing and dining rooms. A modern addition to the Mary Budden Estate, the lodge is built in harmony with the older colonial cottage. It offers four separate en-suite rooms with two distinct dining and sitting areas, all equipped with cosy fireplaces.
Glenburn Tea Estate near Darjeeling, West Bengal
Sitting jauntily amidst the serene hills near Darjeeling, this tranquil retreat blends colonial charm with breath-taking natural beauty. Situated on a sprawling estate spanning over 1,600 acres, this boutique hotel provides an exclusive escape for travellers seeking both relaxation and adventure in the lap of the Himalayas. Originally established as a tea estate in the late 19th century, the property has been lovingly restored to retain its old-world charm while offering modern comforts. Guests can choose from a variety of accommodations, including heritage suites and charming cottages, like the stunning Burra Bungalow. Each offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and tea gardens. Speaking of which, one of the highlights of staying at Glenburn is that guests can explore the extensive tea gardens that surround the estate. Here, they get to witness firsthand the process of tea cultivation and plucking. Guided tours provide insights into the estate’s history and the intricacies of tea production, culminating in a tasting session of Glenburn’s finest brews.
Brij Anyara in Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh
A charming, 161-year-old heritage property surrounded by 10 acres of lush green tea plantations, this all-suite hotel offers sublime views of valleys and snow-capped peaks of Uttarakhand. The resort seamlessly merges rich heritage with contemporary comforts, providing spacious accommodations, delectable dining options, and expansive outdoor spaces for an unforgettable stay. Formerly known as ‘White Haven’, it was initially home to tea planters and later served as the residence of visiting British viceroys. The 12 well-appointed and spacious suites have been thoughtfully designed to ensure a comfortable and enjoyable stay. Each is also named after prominent personalities who have played a significant role in shaping the region. Staying in one of its majestic and luxurious suites, one can trace the footsteps of figures such as Robert Barkley Shaw, a British tea plantation owner, explorer and diplomat, and William Jameson, a pioneer who revolutionised the tea industry in 19th-century north India.
Raul Dias is an independent food, travel and luxury writer