Often wrongly thought of as a mono cuisine, as we are well aware, “Indian food” is anything but one-dimensional! Giving diners a wide berth of options: from the glories of the robustly spiced North Indian cuisine to the subtle flavours of the South, with the country’s coastal belt’s flair reflecting the East and West regions, India has a virtual treasure trove of restaurants that mirror this culinary syncretism. Add to that innovative dining concepts that complement this dynamism and what we have on hand—or on plate, we should probably say—is a restaurant scene that’s as eclectic as it is diverse in its regional offerings.
Here’s our curated list of five interesting conceptual restaurants scattered across the country that imbue this “Indian-ness” to the hilt!
Kangan, Hyderabad
With a vibrant, ethnic soul ensconced in a chic, contemporary setting, Kangan at The Westin Hyderabad Mindspace hotel in the commercial hub of HiTec City is a great way to get introduced to the cuisine of this southeast region of India. The Urdu phrase “ith-mi-naan se”, which means “made with a lot of patience,” is the most accurate description of how food is prepared at Kangan, slow cooking being the hallmark of the Hyderabadi and Awadhi cuisine that it celebrates. At Kangan, each dish is crafted with attention to detail using traditional culinary techniques to ensure authenticity and incredible taste. A reflection of royal magnificence and a sophisticated culinary journey, Kangan is a fine dining experience inspired by the heirloom recipes from the kitchens of Nawabs and Nizams, alongside delights from the Northwest Frontier region, from succulent kebabs and curries to fragrant biryanis. As its name might suggest, Kangan is an ode to the Indian bangle. This leitmotif is reflected in myriad ways: from the art piece-like bangle wall to craftsmen seated in the restaurant ready to customise your very own pair of complementary kangans as a parting gift from the restaurant once you’re done with your meal!
TAT, Mumbai
Paying homage to the rich heritage of coastal India, TAT (meaning coast in Hindi) at Vikhroli is a brand new premier dining establishment that opened on August 5th. Offering an exquisite selection of contemporary Indian coastal cuisine influenced by traditional recipes from the Indian peninsula, the restaurant is dedicated to putting Indian coastal cuisine in the limelight by preserving its rich traditions. Here, one can enjoy small bites like crispy assorted fried poppadums and fish koliwada, or indulge in the sigadi ghee roast, which features delicious Mangalore-style prawns. Complementing the savoury dishes is an array of mouth-watering desserts, like the pooran polli phyllo rolls, lovingly wrapped with coconut and jaggery and a host of other secret ingredients in a crispy, flaky roll, served with ice cream. Reflective of the menu at TAT, the ambience is a lively mix of beachfront calm and cultural depth. Colourful murals of seaside scenery and typical coastal communities provide a welcoming environment. The soft lighting and subtle perfume of spices capture the essence of India’s coastal cuisine perfectly at TAT.
Ikk Panjab, Delhi NCR and Chandigarh
With a whopping four outposts in the NCR (Rajouri Garden, Greater Kailash 2, Connaught Place, and Golf Course Road Gurgaon) and one in Chandigarh, this pind (Punjabi village) themed restaurant is much-celebrated for its authentic Punjabi cuisine. The ambiance of each of the five branches reflects the rich cultural heritage of Punjab, featuring vibrant decor and warm hospitality. Diners can indulge in a variety of traditional dishes, the recipes for which were handed down by the restaurant owner Rajan Sethi’s grandmother. Ikk Panjab celebrates the undivided kingdom of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, and the restaurant reflects the food and folklore from both East and West Punjab before the partition of 1947. The menu also revives lost recipes sourced from cities like Lahore, Multan, Faisalabad, Rawalpindi, and Sialkot in West Punjab, as well as Amritsar, Ludhiana, Patiala, and Chandigarh in East Punjab. Signature dishes like gosht Beliram (Beliram was a cook in the kitchen of Maharaja Ranjit Singh), Kotkppora’s atta chicken, Mandi (Pakistan’s Panjab) da special dahi bhalla, and sialkot masale wali raan to tarn taaran da jaleba are some of the authentic dishes that transport you back in time.
Morisco, Goa
Housed in the iconic Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa, overlooking the Candolim-Calangute-Baga beach stretch, this breezy restaurant is modelled on a colonial Portuguese-Goan villa and serves the catch of the day, showcasing a delectable seafood culinary experience. Shades of the sand and sea find home at this elegant dining, with an interactive live kitchen against the scenic backdrop of the Arabian Sea. The Goan offering at Morisco presents a perfect blend of the four important elements: sweet, sour, spice, and savoury to tantalise your taste buds. The menu brings to you a wide selection of traditional Goan favourites, including crab xec xec, pomfret rechado, prawn balchao, stuffed calamari, and a variety of flavoursome gravies like the famous trio of xacuti, vindaloo and hooman. Finish the delectable experience with sweet indulgences such as bolo gelado de chocolate, lemon-flavoured tender coconut pudding, and the traditional Portuguese dessert, serradura.
Varr, Rishikesh
This pure vegetarian, uniquely themed restaurant located in the Avas Vikas neighbourhood of Rishikesh—one of Hinduism’s holiest of cities—is a truly interesting one. In India, temple food has always held a special place in the hearts of those who have a religious bent of mind. Paying homage in the form of food to the gods and goddesses is a practice that is commonly followed in a country of numerous rituals. Food served in temples in India is regarded as pure and sacred. These offerings, known as ‘prasadam’ in Sanskrit, are either made in the temple itself or are offered by devotees. Since the ‘Ambrosia’ (cuisine) served at Varr is inspired by the ‘Temple Foods of India’, therefore they call it ‘Prasadam at Varr’. Let Varr take you on the journey of pious offerings that range from delicious khichdis and payasams and from the deities from Pathar Sahib, Ladhakh, to Sree Padmanabhaswamy, Thiruvananthapuram. And from the prehistoric Jyotirlinga of Somnath, Gujarat, to the Govindajee Temple in Manipur.
The writer is an independent food, travel and luxury writer