Imagine sipping cardamom tea on a rainy evening, watching the sunset paint the sky in shades of amber and gold. Each sip carries a burst of warmth, a hint of spice that dances on your tongue and takes you on a journey through time and across continents. Ever wondered about the magic behind that delicate yet powerful flavour? Let’s take you to meet a modern-day alchemist who transforms everyday meals and beverages into extraordinary culinary experiences with his array of exotic spices. Join us as we ferret about into the world of this spice dealer, exploring the secrets and stories behind those tiny seeds that have shaped cultures, sparked trade wars and continue to add zest to our lives.
Meet Arjun Biren Nair [in pic], founder of ABAN Spices, who deals in an exquisite selection of 16 spices that would make any food enthusiast’s heart race. “Quality and authenticity are paramount in the spice trade,” says the 31-year-old spice savant.
His aromatic arsenal includes the versatile Green Cardamom and the exotic Flower Mace, the tangy Kokum and the fiery Kanthari Chilli. From the robust Long Pepper and Black Peppercorns sourced from both Malabar and Tellicherry, to the sweet warmth of Cassia and Ceylon Cinnamon, his collection is a flavour fiesta. And let’s not forget the zesty White Peppercorn, the intense Cloves, and the star of many a dish, Star Anise. Adding a dash of vibrant colour and heat, he offers Red Chilli Powder and Turmeric Powder. For those who like their spices with a touch of mystery, there’s the earthy Nutmeg and the big bold Red Chilli.
“The way we source our spices is that I find our suppliers from different parts of Kerala,” says Nair, describing a meticulous process where each sample is rigorously tested for colour, size and moisture content before being accepted. This thorough screening ensures that only the best spices make it to his shelves. “Different spices have unique methods of grading and testing. For instance, black pepper is tested by placing it in water—if it floats, it’s likely a cheap filler like papaya seeds,” he adds.
When it comes to educating customers about the benefits of spices, he begins by assessing their basic knowledge. “Many people store spices incorrectly,” he explains. “I recommend using glass masonic jars because they don’t retain moisture and help preserve the spices’ flavour. When stored properly, spices can last for over two years.”
This spice aficionado ensures that each spice is an attestation to quality and originality, transforming mundane meals into culinary masterpieces. Among his top sellers are green cardamom, turmeric and Kanthari chilli, each flying off the shelves as customers seek to enhance their culinary creations.
The annals of India’s spice heritage trace back millennia, bestowing upon it the illustrious title of the “Spice Bowl of the World”. For epochs untold, indigenous tribes have harnessed the aromatic and medicinal virtues of herbs and spices, intertwining them with the very essence of human civilisation’s chronicle. Invading factions, spanning from the Assyrians and Babylonians to the Arabs, Romans, Egyptians, Chinese, British and Portuguese, have repeatedly descended upon India’s shores, driven by the allure of its abundant natural treasures and the fabled origins of its spices. Historically, spices traversed vast terrains from China, Indonesia, India and Ceylon (present-day Sri Lanka), borne by donkey and camel caravans, from one exotic locale to another. The Arab traders held dominion over the spice trade for approximately five millennia, until the Europeans unveiled a maritime passage to India. Numerous seafaring expeditions were embarked upon in pursuit of a more economical conduit for spice acquisition. Among the notable navigators were Ferdinand Magellan, Vasco da Gama and Christopher Columbus. In 1497, the Portuguese mariner Vasco da Gama navigated the African coastline, culminating in his arrival at Kozhikode on India’s southwestern seaboard in 1498. His return voyage was laden with an opulent bounty of nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, ginger and peppercorns.
Recent trends indicate a growing curiosity among customers, who are increasingly adventurous and willing to experiment with spices they’ve only heard about. While staples like green cardamom, flower mace and star anise maintain their popularity mostly for biryani, lesser-known spices such as Kanthari chilli, the Tellicherry black pepper, white pepper and kokum are beginning to gain traction. The spice dealer’s customer base is wonderfully diverse, ranging from young adults in their early 20s to seasoned cooks in their 60s and 70s. “Anyone who cooks can appreciate the taste of our spices,” says Arjun Nair, emphasising that his products cater to anyone with a passion for cooking. “In fact, Kanthari chilli makes an exceptional substitute for usual chilli flakes on pizza, delivering a truly remarkable flavour,” he remarks.
Predicting market trends requires staying abreast of global culinary developments and understanding the quality people seek. “Keeping up with global culinary trends and news helps. We need to understand what quality people are seeking and educate them about it,” he explains.
Seasonality also plays a significant role in the spice trade. Cardamom, for instance, is harvested in June, just before the heavy rains in Kerala. However, many spices are now grown year-round to meet constant demand.
“Climate change poses significant challenges for the spice industry. Erratic weather patterns, such as unexpected heatwaves or heavy rains, can severely impact spice cultivation,” he explains. Such climatic changes can disrupt the delicate balance needed for growing high-quality spices, leading to fluctuations in supply and prices. The Spices Board plays a crucial role in mitigating these effects by ensuring that the quality of exported spices remains high despite these challenges.
Speaking about technological advancements, Nair says that technology, in the past decade, has also played a role, but the focus remains on maintaining traditional quality standards rather than over-automation. “We avoid over-automation to maintain quality,” he says.
Looking to the future, he believes the spice industry will continue to grow as culinary interests expand. “Food is a universal joy, and its importance will only increase,” he says optimistically.
“Balancing traditional spice offerings with new ones involves building trust with customers. Once they trust the quality of traditional spices, they are more willing to experiment with new flavours. Star anise, once an optional ingredient in biryani, is now a sought-after flavour, demonstrating how introducing new spices can enhance traditional dishes,” comments a cheerful Nair.