What allures Abhisek Roy’s patrons to his couture is his homage to sustainable and ethical fashion, conceptualising multi-faceted wear that is an amalgamation of both the old and the new, just like jewellery designer Sayak Chakraborty whose remarkable silver pieces are trailblazer statements. This festive season, The Statesman caught up with both Abhisek Roy and Sayak Chakraborty, the proprietor of the bijoux label Jalsaghar_Calcutta, at Abhisek Roy’s Bohurupi Shantiniketan store on Graham’s Land in Tollygunge. They shared insights into their latest collections and offered ultimate festive styling tips.
The name of your label is Bohurupi Shantiniketan; how much would you say Shantiniketan has helped you evolve as a designer?
Whatever I am, it is because of this place. I grew up in Shantiniketan, so all of my designs, my aesthetics, everything is based on my upbringing in Shantiniketan. That is the root where I belong, and from where I have evolved so much through my journey as a designer and a stylist.
We associate Abhisek Roy with ethical and sustainable fashion; what are your favourite materials to use in your design?
When it comes to designing, my first thoughts always linger on sustainable fabrics and organic materials like organic silk and cotton. Because I studied textiles at Kala Bhavan in Shantiniketan my inclination towards sustainable textiles has always been there, and that reciprocates through my work.
What would you say is trending this festive season?
This festive season, royal colours are pretty popular, like blue, purple, and pink. Also, what I have noticed is that the co-ords have really carved their own space in the fashion world this festive season in both silhouettes- Indian and Western.
How would you describe your ultimate festive look?
I have an inclination towards rooted authentic design aesthetics. So, whenever I design something, I always try to incorporate tradition into it without missing out on new cuts or aesthetics, which evolves that traditional touch with a new form of design.
Any tips?
Festivity is always about colours and happy and cheerful times, and that should be reflected in what you wear. So avoid anything that might collide with your personality and wear what seems comfortable to you. Try to maintain a balance between what you are accessorising and your ensemble.
We saw on Instagram that you had designed Diwali looks for Saif Ali Khan; how excited were you?
This was one of my biggest opportunities till date. I personally like his style so much, the way he dresses and carries himself, so when the opportunity first came, it took me some time to register it. Everything happened so fast; he had called me, and in 10 minutes, we came up with his Diwali look. We had a fantastic trial, and he was so happy with what I had designed for his Diwali looks that he had also placed a few more orders for his regular and party wear. Also, another reason he chose a Bengali designer is because of his desire to explore and go back to the Bengali side of his roots.
Can we get a few words on your latest collection and what inspired you?
My latest collection is ‘Alpona’, which pays homage to my roots in Shantiniketan and features both festive and bridal collections.
Questions to Sayak Chakraborty
Your label Jalsaghar_Calcutta is synonymous with coming up with remarkable silver pieces that pay an ode to the tradition yet incorporate modern aspects to it. What inspires you to come up with these designs?
The idea of Jalsaghar_Calcutta sneaked up to me randomly while travelling. I have always had an inclination towards traditional aspects but tried to envision it through a contemporary outlook. The idea of my label stuck with me when I saw a few hoardings while travelling and thought that it would be so much better represented through the intricacies of jewellery.
What do you say is trending this festive season? Any tips?
I would say subtle jewellery has been a lot in the limelight this season, like our ‘Makara Motif’. The ‘Shakti Haat Phool’ design and the fish motif lockets from our collections can be adorned with both Western and traditional attire.
Walk us through your latest collection.
We have launched our latest collection ‘Daivi’, this festive season, celebrating Shakti, the feminine power and stressing on the five aspects of divinity- “Shakti Rupena” (strength), “Buddhi Rupena” (intelligence), “Tusti Rupena” (contentment), “Lakshmi Rupena” (prosperity) and “Matri Rupena” (motherly affection). Through this collection, we have showcased that every human being has a divine touch.