The much-awaited return of the Boroli fish, also known as the Hilsa Boroli, has brought relief to the residents of North Bengal and rekindled memories of the late former Chief Minister Buddhadeb Bhattacharya, a noted admirer of this prized delicacy. The Boroli fish, celebrated for its unique flavor and cultural significance, has long been a staple in the diets of North Bengal’s inhabitants and a sought-after treat for tourists visiting the region.
The Boroli fish, which thrives in the rivers of North Bengal~particularly the Teesta, Torsa, Kaljani, and Jaldhaka~has been especially prized when sourced from the Teesta River, earning it the affectionate nickname “Teesta Hilsa.” However, last year’s monsoon season brought unforeseen challenges. Landslides and water contamination in Sikkim led to a devastating die-off of fish in the Teesta, leaving the region without its beloved Boroli for eight long months.
The absence of this seasonal fish, typically abundant from the onset of the monsoon until winter, caused widespread concern among locals and tourists alike. As the monsoon rains arrived in North Bengal this June, the region braced for another difficult season. Heavy rains and runoff from the hills turned the waters of the Teesta cloudy, raising fears that the Boroli might not return. “But as the waters began to clear, the Boroli fish reappeared, much to the relief and delight of fishermen and fish lovers,” said Anil Brahma, a teacher and nature lover, adding that the return of the Boroli has not only rejuvenated the local fishing economy but also restored a cherished part of North Bengal’s cultural heritage.
The Boroli fish can grow up to six inches in length, and the larger specimens, easily recognizable by their yellowish bellies due to excess fat, are highly valued in the market. Prices for these fish have surged, with larger Boroli fetching between Rs. 800 to 1200 per kilogram. Despite the high cost, the demand for this delicacy remains strong, especially among those who cherish the region’s culinary traditions. The return of the Boroli fish also brings to mind the late Buddhadeb Bhattacharya’s deep connection with North Bengal. The former Chief Minister was known for his love of the region’s folk culture and its unique culinary delights, with Boroli fish being one of his favorites.
During his stays at the Cooch Behar Circuit House, Bhattacharya often requested meals featuring Boroli fish from the Torsa River, prepared in both traditional and fried forms. His fondness for this delicacy was so profound that the then Forest Minister, Anant Roy, once personally delivered Boroli fish to Bhattacharya’s home in Kolkata. Ashok Bhattacharya, former state minister and former mayor of Siliguri Municipality, along with Anant Roy, recently reminisced about the late Chief Minister’s affection for North Bengal and its culinary treasures. They expressed their deep respect for Bhattacharya, recalling his simplicity, dedication, and the indelible mark he left on the region. The CPM leadership, along with countless citizens, continues to mourn his passing, recognizing the void left by his absence.
As North Bengal celebrates the return of the Boroli fish, the memories of Buddhadeb Bhattacharya’s contributions and his love for the region’s cultural and culinary heritage serve as a poignant reminder of the deep connections that define this vibrant part of India. The Boroli fish, once again gracing the rivers of North Bengal, is more than just a culinary delight; it is a symbol of the region’s enduring traditions and the lasting legacy of a leader who cherished them.